Author: RobH

USD Assets in the retirement portfolio. Good idea?

RobH7 Comments

I’m not sure when I first made a purchase of a USD-denominated ETF. Probably over 10 years ago. Clearly, I thought it was a good idea, because as of today I find that 57% of my retirement savings1 are denominated in US Dollars.

And unlike other people I’ve talked to, there’s no underlying rationale for that. I’ve never earned employment income in USD and I don’t own property in the US. So why?

I’m a cheapskate.

I started investing in USD based ETFs simply because they were a much better deal than their Canadian equivalents. This is less true now than it used to be, but it’s still true. Take for example the comparison between comparable USD and CAD ETFs that track the same index:

IndexWhat’s in itUSD ETFMERCAD ETFMER
S&P 500Top 500 US stocksIVV0.03%VFV, XUS0.09%
Russell 20002000 mid-market US StocksVTWO0.07%XSU2, RSSX30.36% for XSU, 0.25% for RSSX
FTSE Developed ex USGlobal stocks outside of the USASCHF0.06%VDU0.22%
USD versus CAD ETFs tracking the same index4

The Canadian market has become more competitive, and MERs have come down, but given the size of the US market, it’s still cheaper to invest there.

I’m not a very savvy cheapskate.

So although the MERs of US ETFs were stunningly attractive, I failed to consider the cost of currency conversion. For this I blame naivete as well as a lack of transparency on the part of my provider. It was not possible for me to easily figure out how much each CAD to USD transaction was costing me. A good estimate is about 1.5% the cost of the transaction, but some providers make this much cheaper5.

I also had USD investments in my TFSAs, which, from a tax perspective, isn’t the best idea.

Over time, I discovered the joys of Norbert’s Gambit to do currency transactions on the cheap and I became more savvy. And I eliminated all US holdings from my TFSA.

Preparing for Retirement

In preparing my portfolio for retirement (steps I took are outlined here), I did seriously consider converting everything to CAD in the interest of keeping things simple. I did not, and here’s why:

  • I figured that having ready access to USD would be rather useful to retired me, since I do vacation there. And I had made other preparations in light of that, setting up a USD credit card and USD savings account for RRIF payments to go to.
  • Although I knew that having USD RRIFs would make getting paid in retirement more complicated, I thought I had worked out a plan with my provider6 that would make extracting USD RRIF payments achievable, with some effort on my part.
  • I sort-of liked having some of my investments in USD since it’s a stable currency. Usually.
  • I also liked the additional boost I got from USD HISAs. (That’s probably an anomaly but one I’m happy to take advantage of)
  • I could change my mind at any time.

Current Reality

This isn’t working like I thought it would.

My provider decided to backtrack on allowing me to extract USD from my USD RRIF;7 we’re still going back and forth on that front, but my friends at QTrade are on my naughty list as a result. I’m not hopeful.

What it means practically is that although the value of my USD RRIF is used to calculate my RRIF minimums, I can only withdraw RRIF payments from the Canadian side. At present, the Canadian side of my RRIF will fund my RRIF minimum payments for a while, but at some point I’ll have to use Norbert’s Gambit to move funds from the USD RRIF to the CAD RRIF.

My Advice

I don’t think that holding USD assets in retirement — especially in a RRIF — is a great idea for the DIYer. Unless platform providers give really clear processes8 for how to extract that money from a USD RRIF, expect trouble.

At some point, I will either switch providers to find one that supports my requirements9, or I will convert everything to CAD. Right now, I have a process that works, but older me I expect will find it too complicated.

  1. Majority of the USD holdings are in my / my spouse’s RRIF; small portion is in my non-registered account. ↩︎
  2. Not an apples to apples comparison, admittedly. This ETF is hedged so it’s less impacted by changes in the CAD/USD exchange rate but this comes at a cost. ↩︎
  3. This is ALMOST the same thing; RSSX uses a capped version of the index ↩︎
  4. And try as I might, I couldn’t find a USD ETF that invested in the TSX/S&P 60. Not really surprising, and my USD retirement holdings have very limited Canadian exposure. AOA has about 2.4% Canadian exposure. ↩︎
  5. Notably, Interactive Brokers and lately, Wealthsimple especially if you hold more than 100k with them. ↩︎
  6. Involving multiple phone conversations and multiple emails ↩︎
  7. You may ask, “what’s the point of having a USD RRIF if you can’t extract USD from it”? I had the same question… ↩︎
  8. RBC says they support it and so does Questrade. ↩︎
  9. I had sorely hoped Wealthsimple could be that provider, but (sigh) they don’t support spousal RRIFs at the moment. ↩︎

How to read an ETF fact sheet: what’s in a name?

RobHLeave a comment

Summary: The standard ETF fact sheet is 4 pages of information a Canadian ETF provider is required to provide. Here’s some tips about what to look for in a name.

Google AI, which is never wrong, tells me that there are more than 1500 ETFs available for purchase on the Canadian market. For those new-to-DIY-investing1, that can seem a little overwhelming. Most of my retirement holdings are tied up in just two asset-allocation ETFs, but prior to retirement, I enjoyed juggling a bunch of index ETFs to roll my own custom asset allocation that I rebalanced manually.

A good skill to have is to understand some of the basic language used in these fact sheets so you can decide if a given ETF is right for you and your investment objectives.

What’s the name of the ETF?

So much is captured in the full name of a given ETF. There’s key words I look for, and key words that I avoid.

Words I look for: “Index” or maybe “Idx”

An index is a list of assets that comply to a set of rules laid out by the index manager. You can think of an index as a detailed recipe for building a list of stocks or bonds. What’s important is that the index is not invented by the company selling you the ETF. The index is a third-party invention, and any ETF company can make use of the recipe in offering you, the investor, a product to buy. The index is the recipe, and the ETF company is the chef that prepares the dish that you buy. You could become a chef yourself, and buy the individual components of the index on your own. However, since some of the indices are comprised of hundreds or even thousands of assets, not every index is realistic for the home chef to create.

An ETF that uses the word “index” in its name suggests it’s a passive ETF, meaning there’s a skeleton crew of managers making trades based solely on what’s in the index. I like index funds because they are generally cheap, and over time, they beat the active traders2 again and again.

Like the ETF market itself, there has been an explosion in the number of indices3 out there created by the likes of FTSE Russell or MSCI. Knowing the names of some of the most popular indices can help:

  • S&P/TSX 60: Canadian stock market’s largest 60 companies. Canadian ETFs that track this include XIU and ZIU.
  • S&P 500: US Stock market’s largest 500 companies. Canadian ETFs that track this include VFV, ZSP, and XUS.
  • Russell 2000: US Stock market’s next-largest 2000 companies after first dropping the top 10004. A Canadian ETF that uses this index is XSU.
  • MSCI EAFE: Developed country index, excluding USA and Canada. Canadian ETFs that use this index include ZEA and XEF5
  • FTSE Canada Universe Bond Index: A broad set of Canadian corporate and government bonds. Sold as ZAG by BMO and XBB by BlackRock/iShares.

A quick search reveals all kinds of very specific index funds: sector based (e.g. “AI” or “Healthcare”) and country/region based (e.g. “China”, “BRICSA”). I ignore these kinds of funds because betting a sector or a region feels like market timing to me, and market timing is a proven loser in terms of long-term returns.

Words I avoid: “Hedged”

“Hedged” means that the ETF uses some kind of strategy to smooth out the ups and downs in the Canadian dollar’s exchange rate. And on one level, it makes sense: if you buy the S&P500, you’re owning a bunch of US stocks priced in US dollars. If the Canadian dollar gets stronger, then your US holdings are worth less in CAD. If the Canadian dollar gets weaker, then your US holdings are worth more to you in CAD. So some funds try to make this variance go away.

I avoid hedged funds for a few reasons:

  • It adds cost and complexity to the fund, two things I dislike about where I choose to invest.
  • It’s imperfect; while it makes the bumps in the foreign exchange rate get smaller, it would be overly expensive to make them go away completely
  • If you hold an asset long enough and reinvest your dividends, it will be a wash in the end, and the extra cost just creates a drag on your returns. For example, let’s compare XUS versus XSP, which are identical, save for XSP’s use of hedging:
The long term cost of using hedging: XUS vs XSP (hedged)

Words I avoid: “Leveraged” / “Bull” / “Bear”

“Leveraged” means “we’re buying stocks using borrowed money”. And while buying stocks using borrowed money can significantly enhance your returns in an up market, the opposite is true in a down market. No free lunch.

Any ETF that has Bull or Bear in the name is making a bet based on short term returns. Buying scratch tickets at Christmastime is enough gambling for me, and gambling has no place in my retirement strategy.

Summing up

Looking at the name of an ETF is a good starting filter to decide if it’s for you. It’s just one piece of many included in an ETF’s fact sheet.

  1. Tips on how to execute on that decision were the topic of a previous post ↩︎
  2. For example: https://www.spglobal.com/spdji/en/research-insights/spiva/#canada ↩︎
  3. One tip I can offer: if more than one ETF exists offering the index, it’s probably a decent index to consider. Be a bit suspicious if only one company has an ETF that mirrors said index — I’d consider it a bit of a fringe offering, of no interest to me. ↩︎
  4. This is normally seen as a “mid cap” or “small cap” index, meaning “US stocks that aren’t in the S&P 500”. I looked at https://www.marketbeat.com/types-of-stock/russell-2000-stocks/ and the first company I recognized was Duolingo. ↩︎
  5. As an illustration of the insanity regarding the explosion of indices, XEF tracks not MSCI EAFE but MSCI EAFE IMI, which adds a few more smaller companies into the mix. But if you refer to https://www.msci.com/documents/10199/11a56df6-0f09-4477-a168-cce49e1719cd you will see that the long term performance differs by 0.01%. ↩︎

What’s in my retirement portfolio (Feb 2025)

RobH4 Comments

This is a (hopefully monthly) look at what’s in my retirement portfolio. The original post is here.

Portfolio Construction

The retirement portfolio is spread across a bunch of accounts:

  • 7 RRIF accounts (3 for me1, 3 for my spouse, 1 at an alternative provider as a test)
  • 2 TFSA accounts
  • 5 non-registered accounts2, (2 for me 1 for my spouse, 2 joint)

The target for the overall portfolio is unchanged:

  • 80% equity, spread across Canadian, US and global markets for maximum diversification
  • 15% Bond funds, from a variety of Canadian, US and global markets
  • 5% cash, held in high interest savings accounts (list available to me shown here)

The view as of this morning

As of this morning, this is what the overall portfolio looks like:

Overall retirement portfolio by holding, February 2025

The portfolio, as always, is dominated by AOA and XGRO which are 80/20 asset allocation funds in USD and CAD, respectively. The rest are primarily either cash holdings in HISAs (DYN6004/5 in CAD and USD) or residual ETFs held in non-registered accounts for which I don’t want to create unnecessary capital gains just for the sake of holding AOA or XGRO.

The biggest month over month change is due to a small re-balancing exercise. I replaced some of my XGRO (which is an 80/20 equity/Bond asset allocation fund) with XEQT (a 100% equity asset allocation fund). I do re-balancing any time my asset allocation drifts more than 1% off my target allocations3. The trigger for me was an overweighting in bonds, which had drifted to represent 16% of my portfolio instead of the desired 15%. Upon reflection, the reason was obvious: both AOA and XGRO are 20% bonds, and if I want only 15% bonds, I will periodically need to fund an all-equity alternative. The net effect will be that you will see more XEQT show up in the portfolio over time.

The observant reader will also notice a bit of a shift between DYN6004 and DYN6005. The reason? I raided some USD from DYN6005 to pay my US credit card bill and replaced it with CAD in DYN6004 using the spot FX rate at the time. Seemed the easiest way to get some USD4 without having to resort to my friends at Knightsbridge.

SCHF percentages drifted down a bit since that’s the ETF I’m selling in my non-registered portfolio to augment my monthly RRIF payments. That will continue for the next few months at least since the USD payouts are needed to fund a few holidays5 I’m taking that are billed in USD.

Otherwise, nothing interesting to see in the month to month changes.

Plan for the next month

The geographic split looks like this

Overall retirement portfolio by market, February 2025

The international equity percentage is below my target of 24%, and so I’ll have to fix that. SCHF seems a good choice in USD6 since it’s free to trade with QTrade. XEF would be a perfect fit in the Canadian market.

A quarterly activity that I’ll be performing this month is to shift some of my USD RRIF holdings into my CAD RRIF. This wasn’t something I had planned to do but since my provider has backtracked on allowing me to get paid out of my USD RRIF in USD, I needed a way to keep the USD exposure at a constant-ish level in the overall portfolio. I’ll talk about the USD in my portfolio in a future dedicated post.

One final note: my retirement savings continue to grow even though I’m now actively removing assets out of it. On paper, this makes perfect sense since an 80/15/5 portfolio ought to grow at a rate greater than my rate of removal. In practice, of course, it’s rather stock market dependent. Here’s the monthly returns for the 2 ETFs that make up the lion’s share of my portfolio7.

XGRO and AOA monthly returns so far8
  1. For me, that’s one personal RRIF that has 2 accounts, one for CAD, one for USD, and one spousal RRIF. My spouse has one spousal RRIF in two currencies, and a personal RRIF. The alternative provider RRIF exists because I wanted to give Wealthsimple a try. ↩︎
  2. For me, two because one each for CAD and USD. The 2 joint accounts are my cash cushion accounts for the VPW methodology outlined here and here. ↩︎
  3. Completely spreadsheet-driven. I don’t trade on news, analyses, gut feelings, hot tips, or guesses. ↩︎
  4. I did hesitate a bit because the interest rate on DYN6005 is over 1% higher, but given the amounts involved, I’m clearly overthinking things. ↩︎
  5. All booked before this current tariff nonsense. Sorry. ↩︎
  6. Although it does have a 9% exposure to the Canadian market so not 100% “international”. Hard to beat the MER of this, though. ↩︎
  7. I don’t think this tool accounts for FX so it’s probably not totally accurate. Check out https://moneyengineer.ca/tools-i-use/ for other useful tools. Canadian dollar gained 1.4% against the USD in the past 30 days, per https://www.bankofcanada.ca/rates/exchange/daily-exchange-rates/ so that will reduce the effective return of AOA by the same amount. ↩︎
  8. “Without dividends reinvested” since these two ETFs only pay out quarterly. There haven’t been any yet. ↩︎

Earn money with your cash: The HISA table February 2025

RobH10 Comments

Summary: High Interest Savings Accounts (HISAs) are a way for cash to earn half-decent, risk-free interest. These “Series F” HISAs are likely available through your online broker, but you may have to ask how to get at them, exactly.

The high interest savings account (HISA1) is a different animal than the bank accounts offered by the likes of Simplii, Tangerine, EQ, or Wealthsimple2. The bank accounts are more intended for very short term savings for day to day use. They frequently offer attractive promotional rates for new clients. And while these are all good ways to earn a few extra bucks on cash in your account, it’s not the focus here.

The HISAs I’m talking about are usually only offered via a broker, and many of the DIY brokers3 allow you to purchase the so-called “Series F” version of these, which do not have any hidden trailer fees. They are “special” bank accounts insured by CDIC4 that pay rates that are tied to the overnight rates. When those change, expect the HISA rates to follow suit.

There was a mini-explosion in ETFs that invested in HISAs: CASH and HISA are two examples5. I never bothered with these since they weren’t free to trade on QTrade and trading costs would be a significant drag on the ROI.

Part of my investment philosophy is to have 5% of my overall holdings in cash (as for the rest, it’s 15% in bonds, 80% in Equity). And so I’m quite motivated to have some sort of real return6 from my cash position since it is a measurable part of my net worth.

So I do pay attention to the ups and downs of the HISA rates. And I figured I’d share them with you:

Current HISA rates for HISAs available via QTrade

There’s also a Google Sheets version with a bit more detail (source links) if you prefer.

Hopefully most of the fields are self-explanatory. The “fund” column shows the identifier you would need to use to actually trade the HISA on your trading platform. How to access it will vary by provider. QTrade hides their HISAs in the “Mutual Fund” tab which is incorrect; these are not mutual funds, but are often modeled that way in the DIY platforms.

For Canadian Dollar HISAs, Scotiabank7 has been usurped! They have long been the highest-paying provider but the title now falls to B2B bank: https://b2bbank.com/advisor-broker-rates/banking-rates.

For those of you who hold US cash in your brokerage accounts, you can benefit from the much higher US interest rates8, and you have multiple choices since multiple providers are paying the same rate.

Before taking the leap and trading in HISAs, I was surprised by how they were handled on QTrade. There were a few differences possibly specific to QTrade, but pay attention to how your provider handles HISA trades:

  • QTrade considers holdings in HISAs part of your cash position for the purposes of buying stocks and ETFs9. If you successfully complete a trade that exceeds your ACTUAL cash position (i.e. cash NOT in the HISA) you will also have to sell the correct amount of your HISA to get rid of the negative cash balance in your account and avoid interest fees
  • HISA trades are not tracked in the “orders” tab of QTrade10 so be careful that you don’t inadvertently trade the same thing twice
  • QTrade limits all HISA purchases to $1000 minimum; there are no restrictions on sales, and there are no fees for either buying or selling HISAs.

Does your DIY broker give you access to other funds? Let me know about them at comments@moneyengineer.ca!

  1. An aside about the image chosen for this post…I pronounce the acronym HISA….and it’s on a TABLE, get it? ↩︎
  2. Looking at these websites, I may have to consider breaking up with CIBC for my day to day banking… ↩︎
  3. QTrade and iTrade definitely allow you to purchase these. Wealthsimple and BMO Investorline do not. Wealthsimple as a matter of course offers pretty competitive rates for any cash floating around in your account, especially if you have over $500k with them. BMO Investorline has high interest savings too, but you access to their product only (BMT104). ↩︎
  4. My personal bias is that I don’t much pay attention to CDIC-insured or not. I figure if major Canadian banks start failing, I had better make like Survivorman, because no insurance is going to save me. Perhaps that’s naive. ↩︎
  5. Great names for both, by the way ↩︎
  6. That’s return above the current inflation rate. Hiding money under a pillow would typically earn a negative real return, equal in magnitude to the current inflation rate. ↩︎
  7. All my cash holdings are in DYN6004 or DYN6005. ↩︎
  8. US Fed has not been as aggressive in cutting interest rates as compared to Bank of Canada. ↩︎
  9. Since I don’t have a margin account, if I try to buy something I don’t have the money for, I’m normally strongly discouraged from doing so with a clear warning. ↩︎
  10. BMO Investorline is the king of confusing handling of cash positions in your account. ↩︎

Ok, I’m ready to fire my advisor. What do I need to do?

RobH2 Comments

So you’ve decided to make the leap and keep more of your own money. Congratulations! Here’s a list of things you need to do to put that plan into action.

Disclaimer: I treat my retirement assets separately from any other assets (rainy day funds, day-to-day expenses). If you blend these sort of things together, it may change things like step 1.

1. Determine your desired asset mix

“Asset mix” is just another way of describing your risk profile, or in really plain English, what percentage of your portfolio is going to be invested in equity. There’s a quick questionnaire over here that will put you in one of 5 buckets:

  • Very Conservative: This means 20% Equity.
  • Conservative: This means 40% Equity.
  • Balanced: This means 60% Equity.
  • Growth: This means 80% Equity.
  • Aggressive Growth: This means 100% Equity.

If you’re happy with the way your existing portfolio is performing, then you can instead calculate the percentage of equity in it and use that as your asset mix. For simplicity, I would consider any stock as “equity” and any cash, HISA, Bond fund or GIC as “not equity”. If your portfolio holds ETFs, then you need to see what’s inside them. You can typically read that on the “fund facts” page. They are usually one or the other, unless you already hold funds like XGRO.

2. Choose your platform and create login(s) for it

But which one? I talk about some of the things to consider over here, or you can investigate a trustworthy source like the Globe and Mail’s annual rankings. Some providers (e.g. QTrade, Questrade) allow you to make trial accounts to test drive them. I myself use QTrade for my investments. Like all providers, it does some things really well, and others, not so much. I have either personal experience or friends using (in alphabetical order) BMO Investorline, Interactive Brokers, iTRADE, QTrade, Questrade and Wealthsimple. Any of them will do. Many of them run promotions1 trying to entice you to switch. Might as well take advantage of that if it makes sense23. Also consider if they will reimburse you the transfer fees imposed by your soon-to-be-ex provider of choice4.

The heading of this section says “login(s)” because if you’re part of a spousal team, you should really do this as a team.

This step also usually entails form-filling and proof of life uploads/emails/faxes5 (photo ID, banking info….). Put on your favourite tunes and the time will be filled with pleasant sounds.

3. Figure out how to move money to and from your new platform

If you’re still contributing to your TFSA/RRSP/RESP, or if you have non-registered accounts, or are close to retirement and about to set up a RRIF, then it’s pretty important to know how money will move in/out of these accounts. Typical things you’ll have to do are

  • set up your new account(s) as “Bill Payees” online banking6
  • set up EFTs7 between your bank account and new platform
  • set up new Interac eTransfers8
  • Get cheques/bank card for your non-registered account, if applicable9

4. Collect all your existing account information

To successfully complete the transfer, you are going to need to know the details of all your existing accounts. The usual information requested is found on your monthly/annual statements. Client number, account number, rough value of what’s in each.

If applicable, you’ll also want to have a very good handle on exactly how much you’ve contributed to capped government savings vehicles (e.g. RRSP, TFSA) so you don’t inadvertently over contribute in the year you make the shift10.

There may be a snag at this step. You may hold assets at your old provider that are not supported at your new provider. This may or may not be a big deal. Typical issues are caused by

  • GICs11. The reason you get good interest rates from them is because the money is locked away. You may or may not be able to move them without incurring penalties. You’ll have to ask your new provider what they are willing to do. In most cases, the answer will be “sorry, can’t help you, if you want to move them, you’ll have to sell them first”12.
  • Mutual Funds. Many of these are private to that provider,13 and constitute, in their estimation, considerable value add. For these, you are almost certainly going to have to say goodbye (and good riddance) .

For GICs, you can choose not to move those assets, wait until they mature, or eat the cost of cashing them in early.

For Mutual Funds, selling them usually isn’t a concern, unless you hold them in a non-registered account, in which case there may be undesirable capital gains that will cause a tax hit.

For most people, the costs involved in moving assets are small compared to the money you’ll ultimately save by firing your advisor. But don’t say I didn’t warn you.

5. Initiate account transfers from your newly selected platform

This is the first step where things get real.

Different providers will do this somewhat differently, but it’s usually called something like “Transfer Account”. In my experience, providers are highly motivated to be highly helpful at this stage ;-).

But in essence, initiating an account transfer will involve two things:

  • The creation of the kind of account you’re moving (e.g. TFSA, RRSP, Spousal RRSP, RRIF14) AND
  • The details of that account (client number, account number….all collected in the previous step)

It’s also possible you have to create the account (TFSA, RRSP….) on your new platform FIRST, and once it’s created THEN you can initiate a transfer.

You will have to answer a question of moving the existing assets “in kind” or “as cash”. If you hold portable assets at your old provider (e.g. cash, stocks, ETF), “in kind” is fine. If you don’t (e.g. GICs, mutual funds) then “as cash” will allow your new provider to trigger a sale of those assets.

You will have to do this for EVERY account you’re moving. Were I to switch, I’d have to move

  • 4 RRIF accounts (2 each for me and my spouse; one in CAD, one in USD)
  • 2 spousal RRIF accounts (1 for each spouse)
  • 2 TFSA accounts (1 for each spouse)
  • 5 investment accounts (2 for me, 1 for my spouse, and 2 joint15)
  • 1 RESP account

6. Wait for the funds to arrive

This always seems to take forever. Expect a delay of 5-10 business days at this point. Expect a panicky call from your soon-to-be-ex advisor. Take the time to set up Trading Authority (TA) for your personal accounts (spouse, adult child, other relative) so they can make trades on your behalf. There’s a form for that. Having TA for my spouse’s accounts means I can see our ENTIRE retirement portfolio from my login which is Highly Desireable.

7. Buy the correct ETF in line with step 1.

As as example, if you were to use the Blackrock family of asset allocation funds:

  • Very Conservative: This means 20% Equity. This means XINC.
  • Conservative: This means 40% Equity. This means XCNS.
  • Balanced: This means 60% Equity. This means XBAL.
  • Growth: This means 80% Equity. This means XGRO.
  • Aggressive Growth: This means 100% Equity. This means XEQT.

The reason for choosing an asset allocation fund is for automatic re-balancing. You pay about 0.15% for that service, which is baked into the price of the fund. It’s more or less what your advisor should do for you today.

8. Pay as much or as little attention as you like

As you invest new funds (e.g. for TFSA/RRSP), buy more units. You might also consider setting up a DRIP at this stage so as dividends roll in (typically, monthly or quarterly), you automatically purchase more of the same. Autopilot.

If you want a second set of eyes to assess your holdings, then dropping some cash on a fee-for-service advisor from time to time may make sense.

Eight steps to save potentially thousands of dollars. You’re worth it!

  1. Googling (for example) “Wealthsimple promotion” would be one way to find the current one. ↩︎
  2. Read the fine print, there are almost always caps on rewards, as well as obligations to stick with the provider for a period of time. ↩︎
  3. Here is one rare case where there may indeed be something pretty close to a free lunch. ↩︎
  4. Almost all providers do this; there is almost always some sort of lower limit…$15k is pretty typical. ↩︎
  5. Any provider wanting faxes should disqualify them as a provider, just sayin’. ↩︎
  6. This is how QTrade does it. ↩︎
  7. Electronic fund transfers. You provide institution/transit/bank account number using a blank cheque. That’s how QTrade knows where to put my RRIF payments. Another form to fill. ↩︎
  8. Only Wealthsimple seems to allow this. It’s fast, but has upper daily/weekly/monthly limits that may make it impractical. ↩︎
  9. Both BMO Investorline and Wealthsimple allow this. I’m guessing that it’s a common feature for providers that also operate bank services (e.g. CIBC, TD, National Bank, Scotiabank). My provider (QTrade) does not. ↩︎
  10. Your new provider will have no idea what your TFSA limits are; only CRA knows that. Most providers will track what you contribute IN THEIR ACCOUNT in a given year, so that’s somewhat helpful. ↩︎
  11. The lack of liquidity of GICs is the main reason I don’t use them. ↩︎
  12. The one exception I’ve encountered thus far is that BMO Investorline was willing to accept the GICs purchased via BMO Advisor Services. There may be others. ↩︎
  13. Manulife and Sunlife, much loved by employers for DPSPs, are notorious for their 1.5% MER index funds. ↩︎
  14. Don’t forget to properly designate beneficiaries or survivor annuitants. ↩︎
  15. These are CAD and USD versions of the cash cushion required by the system I use to pay myself in retirement. ↩︎