Category: Cheapskates

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Retirement taxes versus paycheque taxes

RobHLeave a comment

I’ve talked about how to think about taxes in retirement before (and I re-read my post, it still holds up) but maybe something that isn’t clear how it differs from when you collected a steady paycheque.

The paycheque withholds tax et al at the source; retirement, maybe not

I think this is well understood. The government likes getting taxes all year round, not just in April. And so part of your paycheque is remitted to the government — taxes, yes, but also CPP/EI contributions and all that stuff that no longer applies when you stop collecting a paycheque.

Withholding tax is an excellent example of the “pay yourself first” principle popularized by The Wealthy Barber. You never see the money, so you sort-of forget it’s yours. Anyway, all things being equal, the withholding amounts should be pretty close to correct, but there are all kinds of things that can throw off the calculation: bonuses, charitable giving, and RRSP contributions are the main ones. I never quite understood people who were happy to get a tax refund. That’s your money you’re getting back, and you’ve given the government an interest free loan.

Anyway, in retirement, this may not be the case:

  • If you pay yourself RRIF minimum (as I do) then there is no tax withheld at source. Of course, you can take MORE than RRIF minimum, in which case you will experience withholding tax, just like the bad old days when you were working.
  • If you pay yourself from non-registered investments (as I do), you’re likely creating taxable income if you’re selling assets that have increased in value. And that taxable income contributes to (surprise, surprise) your tax bill. Now it bears repeating that only half of your capital gains attract the CRA’s attention: the other half, and the money you put in, are all yours to keep, tax-free.
  • And of course T-slip capital gains, interest income and dividend income isn’t taxed at the source either. All of it must be accounted for at tax time.

The implication of all this is that you have to be ready to pay some of your retirement salary back to the CRA. I have a special Wealthsimple savings account1 that I contribute to monthly; I “self-withhold” about 15% of my salary, fully expecting to drain this account come tax time2.

You care less about marginal tax rates, and more about overall tax rates

In case you weren’t aware, not every dollar you make is taxed the same way. Canada has tax brackets; each tax bracket has its own tax rate. Thanks to taxtips.ca, you can get a combined federal/provincial look for how your income is taxed:

This table (and most tables like it) are showing marginal rates. The marginal rate is the tax rate charged on the income that sits above the floor of the tax bracket. Lots of people mix up the idea of marginal rates versus overall tax rates. Let’s take a simple example of someone who is drawing a salary or getting their income from a RRIF: both are taxed as “other income” in the table above:

  • Net income: $50,0003. Tax bill: 19.05%*$50000=$9525. In this example, there is no difference between your marginal rate and your overall rate.
  • Net income: $55,000. Tax bill: $9525 on the first $50,0004, and 23.15%*$5000=$1,157.50 on the remainder. Your total tax bill in this case is therefore $9525+$1157.50=$10,682.50. Your marginal rate is 23.15%, but your overall rate is much lower: $10682.50/$55000=19.4%.

My financial advisor I hired pre-retirement suggested I should target a 15% marginal tax rate, blended between my spouse and I. That’s not easy to do on RRIF payments alone, but then of course you have to consider other income sources like capital gains and dividends.

Non-registered investments can pay a salary; but tax treatment is quite different

So I look for my non-registered investments to generous returns — whether those are capital gains or dividends is unimportant. From a tax perspective, capital gains are especially weird because when you’re paying yourself by selling assets, you are typically earning MORE than “just” the capital gain (i.e. the part that is taxable) part. An example may help.

Let’s say you bought $10000 of XEQT in January 2023. As of today (October 22), it would be worth $200005:

And say you sold it all on October 22m — you’d have $20000 in your bank account. Hooray. CRA would say you made a capital gain of $10000. So if that represented your whole taxable 2026 income, that would attract a tax bill of 9.53%*$10000 =$953.00. Thinking about overall rather than marginal tax rates, you’d therefore have an overall tax rate of $953/$20000 = 4.7%! Pretty sweet.

If instead that $20000 was a RRIF withdrawal, and you had no other taxable income, CRA would present you a tax bill of 19.05%*$20000=$3,810.00, an overall tax rate of 19.05%,

Maybe you’re counting on your non-registered investments generating $20,000 of dividends instead. This generates an overall tax credit in this case6!

Retirees are obsessed with how much tax they pay

Since taxes tend to be your single biggest expense in retirement, I understand why. I try to be smart without going to extreme lengths; as I learned managing my parents’ estate, there’s either going to be a tax bill while you’re alive, or a much larger one when you’re dead. Taxes you avoid in the early years of retirement are either going to come due once you start collecting CPP/OAS7, or when you’re dead. RRIFs8 and non-registered accounts are considered liquidated on the day of death, attracting all the income/capital gains in one calendar year, and hence the highest possible tax bracket.

  1. This account does NOT factor into my net-worth calculations. I’ve already, in effect, written it off. ↩︎
  2. And in my case, this I expect will start to be every quarter as I’ll shift to paying tax in instalments. Oh well. ↩︎
  3. Net income is lower than your salary, since everyone has (at least) the personal deduction. ↩︎
  4. using the calculation above ↩︎
  5. And doubling your money in less than 4 years is an excellent argument for holding equities. (Of course, you’ll all be crowing when the floor eventually falls out, but equities do outperform over time…) ↩︎
  6. If you’re in a lower tax bracket, it’s hard to beat dividends. They start to become less efficient as you climb the brackets, especially if you’re collecting OAS since grossed up amount of dividends are use to test eligibility for OAS. ↩︎
  7. OAS clawback is a particular obsession of the retired. ↩︎
  8. Unless you declare your spouse as a successor annuitant; you’ve already done that, right? ↩︎

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News: Rogers Red Mastercard Changing

RobHLeave a comment

The Rogers Red World Elite Mastercard, the anchor of my cheapskate credit card strategy, is undergoing some changes that give me some pause.

Effective in November, the Rogers Mastercard will remove the 1.5x bonus for Rogers services.  I’ve effectively been using it to pay for my Internet, phone and TV services every month since acquiring the card. I’ll still be able to do that, but I’ll need to spend more money on the card to get the same benefit.

The new rules are such that you get 5% cashback for spending money on Rogers services, which on the face of it sounds like a pretty good deal; what disappears is the (effectively) 3% cashback on anything else you buy when applied to Rogers services. For most people1 this is actually a less rewarding strategy. Here’s an example:

Expense chargedAmountCashback
Anything$1000$20 or $30 if applied to Rogers service
Rogers Service$100$2 or $3 if applied to Rogers service
total$22 or $33 if applied to Rogers service

In other words, by spending $1100 a month, you can earn $33 of free Rogers services. Or $22 of other free things.

With the new scheme, the same table looks like this:

Expense chargedAmountCashback
Anything$1000$20
Rogers Service$100$5
total$25

In the new scheme, you can spend the same amount and get $25 cashback which you can spend on whatever you like. For me, this is a downgrade since the total amount I can apply to Rogers services drops significantly. (From $33 to $25 for the exact same spend). Put it another way: to pay for a $100/month Rogers service, in the old scheme you would have to spend $3333.33. In the new scheme, you’d have to spend $48502 or 45% more!

There’s also the demise of trip cancellation insurance for the World Elite versions, which wasn’t a big deal to me. I carry separate insurance for this sort of thing since the credit card benefits are generally pretty meagre.

So here is my current credit card strategy:

Expense chargedCard to useCashback
Restaurants or Costco GasCIBC Costco Mastercard33% cashback for these services4
Rogers serviceRogers Red Mastercard5% cashback5
Foreign currency transactionsWealthsimple Visa card2%, and no FX fees6
anything elseRogers Red Mastercard or Wealthsimple Visa, no real difference72% cashback

What this table tells me is that I could easily start using my Wealthsimple card for the majority of my transactions without really thinking about it.

  1. Who use Rogers, of course. I don’t think the card makes much sense if you’re not a Rogers/Fido customer. ↩︎
  2. $4750 of general spending gets you $95, and the $100 Rogers charge gets you the other $5. ↩︎
  3. I could also use CIBC Costco for Costco.ca or other gas since those are also 2% categories for this card. After a while, it gets to be too much to remember… ↩︎
  4. I don’t buy Costco gas much, but my spouse does. I settle with buying gas at Shell which gives me 0.03 off a litre thanks to CAA membership. ↩︎
  5. I don’t need to remember to do this since I set up Rogers autopay via credit card. ↩︎
  6. Part of my airport ritual is switching my default payment card to Wealthsimple so I don’t inadvertently make a “bad” FX transaction. ↩︎
  7. Small difference: Wealthsimple Visa pays cashback monthly, and it goes directly to an interest-earning account. With Rogers, I have to bill pay the card, and then apply cashback earned to charges on the card. A bit more work. ↩︎

people exchanging money in cantor

Retirement Portfolio is now USD-free

RobHLeave a comment

On September 4th, I sold my last units of DLR1 within my RRIF account and completed my multi-month activity of kicking USD out of retirement portfolio. I ended up doing this about 3 months faster than I anticipated, but that’s because Questrade offered a free two-month trial for Questrade Plus, which included as many free journaling activities2 as you wished during the trial. And since I’m a cheapskate, I figured saving the journaling fees was worth me upping the pace of my USD to CAD conversions.

I asked Claude to take a look at the various gambits I undertook3 and evaluate them. Claude was quite upbeat:

  • Claude calculated an effective blended rate of 1.39946.
  • Claude said I beat the spot rate by roughly +0.15% overall
  • And, as expected, Claude assessed that every single gambit landed within a few basis points of the spot market, much better than what Questrade would have charged me (1.5% or so).

So now, here’s what my various account types look like, in terms of assets. There’s no USD listed ETFs anymore. Here’s what the three kinds of accounts look like.

Let’s recap the major changes, per account type.

Non-Registered accounts

I’m always a bit reluctant to mess around with non-registered accounts since making trades here inevitably lead to capital gains. But the impact in the end was pretty minor.

There’s actually three separate accounts being considered here. Two are legacy investment accounts that have long-term holdings. The other is my so-called “cash cushion” account that is an integral part of my decumulation strategy, called “VPW”. You can read about the mechanics of it here.

So for the cash cushion, I had to get rid of ICSH in favour of ZMMK. I’m giving up roughly 1.2% in annual return by doing this, but I figure at some point the Bank of Canada and the US Federal Reserve will get closer in terms of their interest rates. This had a minor capital gain impact, which was as expected. Both ICSH and ZMMK keep a pretty stable price point (around $50/unit) and pay out monthly.

The bigger issue was getting rid of SCHF from my non-registered holdings, which I had held for a very long time. Selling that was going to trigger a large capital gain that I hadn’t accounted for in my tax calculations. The solution I came up with was pretty nifty, if I do say so myself. SCHF in my model is largely “International Equity” so clearly I was going to have to replace that international equity contribution somewhere. I ended up replacing SCHF with VCN (a Canadian equity holding) and replacing XIC (a slightly different Canadian equity holding than VCN) with VFV in the TFSA account. In essence, I moved my international equity stake out of my non-registered accounts and put it in the TFSA instead.

By buying VCN (a new fund for me) in my non-registered account, I reset the ACB of that fund so selling units a few months from now shouldn’t really attract too much in the way of capital gains. In fact, the first month4 I sold VCN to pay my monthly salary, I took a small loss. So my tax planning should also stay intact.

TFSA accounts

There were no USD assets in my TFSA to begin with, so no changes were needed on that account. I had to do some asset class shifting here while maintaining 100% equity allocation in the TFSA. As mentioned above, XIC (Canadian Equity) was dismissed from the TFSA, and replaced with VIU (which is international equity).

I do have a small desire to convert the TFSA into a custom index (a Questrade feature) to save a bit on the MER imposed by XEQT here. I may yet do this. It will expand the number of ETFs in these accounts since I’ll need to decompose XEQT into its constituent components. This is again a case of me adding complexity in order to save a few bucks…But don’t I owe it to my readership to give it a try?

RRIF accounts

Mainly, the RRIF accounts replaced AOA with XGRO and ICSH with ZST. But since XGRO holds a lot less US Equity than AOA did, the AOA to XGRO conversion wasn’t exact. I had to replace some of the AOA with a US Equity holding (VFV). I chose to use ZST instead of ZMMK in the RRIF for two reasons:

  • I wanted a different ETF in my RRIF as compared to my non-registered. This helps me avoid CRA superficial loss rules.
  • ZST is ever so slightly riskier than ZMMK, which is fine, since the cash position in the RRIF is much more static than the cash position in my non-registered account.

The way ahead

Getting rid of USD assets has simplified my portfolio and my workflow thinking. I no longer have to worry about USD/CAD exchange rates, and my need to use Norbert’s Gambit should be over. It also opens up my universe to other DIY brokers. I’ve been a fan of Wealthsimple, but couldn’t use them for my RRIF accounts since they contained USD assets. Now I can consider Wealthsimple for all my investing needs5.

Working through the mechanics of slowly moving my assets to an all CAD lineup has caused me to probably spend way more time than is healthy looking at my portfolio and making trades. This should come to an end — with DRIP set up across all registered accounts6, the holdings should be more or less on autopilot with only monthly checkins to make sure my asset allocations haven’t drifted too far from my targets.

I’ve updated my posts that talk about ETF all stars and the “Magnificent Seven” ETFs as well, for reference.

  1. Selling DLR is the last step of a Norbert’s Gambit when you’re converting USD to CAD. You can read about the gambit on Questrade here. ↩︎
  2. “Journaling” is the step that turns units of DLR.u (which are priced in USD) into units of DLR (which are priced in CAD). If you’re not a Questrade Plus subscriber, journaling costs $9.95 plus HST every time you do it on Questrade. ↩︎
  3. Ok, not all of them — Claude only connects to the accounts I own, and not those of my spouse. And the last trades haven’t settled yet, so the one I did on September 4th wasn’t showing up in my transaction history. I don’t expect the story is too different if I include the gambits I ran in my spouse’s RRIF account. ↩︎
  4. After making sure 30 days had passed in order to avoid a “superficial loss” in CRA’s parlance. ↩︎
  5. And if they offer a promotional offer that throws free money my way, I’d seriously consider switching brokers again. ↩︎
  6. I don’t use DRIP in non-registered accounts because non-registered transactions need to be logged for adjusted cost base adjustments; I’d prefer to keep these fully under my control to minimize the number of transactions. I don’t mind carrying a bit of cash in non-registered accounts in order to avoid excess trades. ↩︎

clear glass jar with silver coins

CAA Cheapskate

RobHLeave a comment

I’ve been a CAA member for a while (actually, it was my spouse who first signed up and I’ve been on the family plan ever since). Most people think of CAA as someone you can call if you have a car breakdown12, and that’s certainly a good bit of insurance, but they also have other good deals that maybe you were not aware of. I found these by navigating to my local site (CAA North and East Ontario).

Discounted Gas at Shell

Including your CAA membership number at Shell stations reduces the price of fuel by 3¢ a litre. That’s really easy to do if you use the Shell app on your phone, since you can link it right there.

Deals on Rogers services (wireless, internet)

I just discovered this myself while researching this article. There’s more-than-decent deals on wireless services (not as good as Fizz mobile, my cheapskate provider of choice) but $35/month for 85G of data and Canada-wide unlimited talk and text is a nice offer. There’s also offers that give you good deals on home internet and television services. Paired with my Rogers Red credit card, things are even better!

Deals on Insurance

I found cheap contents insurance for my parents’ retirement home unit through CAA. They were fast and efficient at getting it all set up. You can check it out at https://caaneo.ca/insurance/property-insurance/tenant-insurance/.

Deals on … Museums?

For the Ottawa crowd, CAA offers 25% discounts on the Ingenium museums. These include the very kid-friendly Science and Technology museum, the Agriculture Museum and the Aviation and Space museum. I didn’t know that either: https://caaneo.ca/rewards/partners/ingenium/.

If you’re already spending on a CAA membership, you might as well maximize your return on that investment. What’s your best CAA discount? Let me know at comments@moneyengineer.ca!

  1. Although patience is a good idea. Supply of CAA tow trucks seems to outstrip demand! ↩︎
  2. They also offer bike breakdown service: https://caaneo.ca/automotive/bike-assist/ ↩︎