Caution: Transferring RRIFs between brokers

DIY investors include a growing number of RRIF holders (like me). If you want a primer on RRIFs, you can read that here. There are some strange nuances involved with moving RRIFs between brokers which may not be obvious and are not documented anywhere — or if they are, I have yet to find where.

I’ve covered parts of this topic before, (here and here) but this post attempts to summarize the weirdness so you don’t get caught unaware. It is my belief that the cautions outlined below are applicable to ALL brokers, but happy to learn otherwise, just drop me a line at comments@moneyengineer.ca, I read all my mail.

For simplicity, I’m going to refer to the “sending” broker (the broker that currently manages the RRIF) and the “receiving” broker (the broker to whom you’re transferring those same assets).

Caution 1: A sending broker cannot transfer a RRIF unless it has fully paid out RRIF minimum for that year.

As RRIF aficionados will know, at the end of the calendar year, a new “RRIF minimum” amount is calculated by the broker based on the market value of the RRIF at that time and the age of either the RRIF owner or the spouse of the RRIF owner. This is a well-known fact. What is perhaps not so well known is that the broker who holds the RRIF at the start of the year is obligated to pay out the full amount of the RRIF minimum, even if that RRIF is transferred in the course of the year1.

This has implications, especially if you attempt the transfer early in a calendar year:

  • You are going to end up with “extra” cash that you weren’t expecting. You’ll have to be prepared to do something with that money, but what? Leave it as cash? Invest it in a HISA? Invest it in an all-in-one?
  • This early windfall also means that your potential tax-free growth2 is lost.

Caution 2: Waiting past end of November to initiate a RRIF transfer runs the risk of tying up your RRIF funds for multiple months

“Fine”, you think, “if I wait until late in the year to transfer my RRIF, I can avoid the problems inherent in Caution 1”. This is what I thought, too. I was, again, wrong.

There seems to be an industry-wide pause on RRIF transfers that starts in late November and lasts until January of the following year. I’ve seen more than one mention of it. Questrade’s message when I attempted to transfer-in my RRIF to them was

Please be advised that RRIF/LIF account transfers are subject to the industry-wide cut-off date, November 28, 2025. This cut-off date is not specific to Questrade, but is arranged and agreed upon by all Canadian financial institutions to ensure yearly payments are made in an orderly and timely manner to all account holders.”

It appears I got extremely unlucky: the transfer STARTED before November 28th, but failed to fully complete before the deadline. Performing a transfer is a multi-step process using a service called “ATON”34. You can read all about how ATON works over here.

In my case, it took until mid-February for the transfer to complete. During that time, the account was in limbo, and no payments could be made. For someone who expects to be paid monthly from a RRIF, this was a bit of a problem.

Advice: Initiate RRIF transfers before November 1.

This ought to give enough time for the transfer to complete before the cut-off date. And minimizes the amount and time you have “extra” money floating around. You can help make sure your transfer goes as expected:

  • Make sure the assets you hold are supported at both institutions. GICs are a frequent problem. So are bank-backed HISAs. If you hold assets like that, do yourself a favour and sell them before you initiate the transfer so that they are just cash.
  • If you hold fractional shares in your account5, get rid of them by selling off the fractions or buy more so that you have whole shares. From what I’ve read, fractional shares are a construct that is broker-specific and will cause issues when you attempt to transfer them.
  • Make sure you have enough cash in your RRIF so that the sending broker can pay out your RRIF minimum before the transfer begins.

Happy investing. If a transfer really goes astray, it looks like OBSI can help.

  1. This CRA link seems to be the one that states this. ↩︎
  2. Since the average gains of the market are positive, I’m always going to make the assumption that it’s better to be invested than not. You could of course get lucky and avoid a big market downturn because your RRIF cashed early, but that’s not how I think about investing. Time in the market is always better than timing the market, per Ken Fisher ↩︎
  3. “Account Transfer Online Notification”, apparently per https://cffim-fcmfi.ca/wp-content/uploads/aton-best-practices-guide-Jan-15-2021-v9.9.pdf ↩︎
  4. I am indebted to Financial Wisdom Forum users NorthernRaven and OptsyEagle for their help in understanding what went wrong in my case ↩︎
  5. Wealthsimple (for all shares/ETFs) and Questrade (for some US shares/ETFs) both offer this option. There may be others. ↩︎

“How Much do You Need to Retire”?

This was the title of a recent webinar I attended via PWL. You can watch it yourself over here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQl6n4zepys. I don’t think I learned a ton from it — the short answer? “It depends”. “On what?”, you may ask. Here’s some things that influence the answer to the question:

It depends on HOW you live.

Put another way, “what’s your budget in retirement1“? This is a question that many people don’t have an answer to. There’s a few buckets to think about, it’s not intended to be exhaustive:

  • Necessities: shelter (and associated maintenance) and utilities(heat, light, water, internet, streaming services, phone), food, clothing, exercise, transportation and associated insurance/maintenance2, taxes (municipal3, federal)
  • Medical expenses (drugs, dentists, optometrists, physiotherapy)
  • Entertainment (eating out, shows, memberships/user fees)
  • Travel (transport, housing, activities)
  • Charities

One thing you don’t have to worry about is setting aside money for an RRSP, since once you’re retired, that’s no longer a thing. But don’t neglect the need for a savings fund for unexpected larger expenses. We always keep a “house fund” that gets a monthly payment that we don’t touch for anything other than home renovations or repairs.

Your bank/credit card4 statements5 might be a good place to see what your typical spending looks like.

It depends on where you live

Live in Toronto? Vancouver? Yeah, that’s not cheap. But if you were willing to move to, say, Thailand or a low cost Canadian city, you might be able to spend a lot less on housing. But since most people aren’t willing to uproot, these costs are known, or can at least be reasonably estimated. And if you’re staying put, then will you downsize? When?

It depends on whether you have a pension outside of CPP/OAS

And I’d add, “and it depends if that pension is indexed to inflation”. (The CPP and OAS are, which is why they are great).

It depends on how long you’re going to live

Not predictable, obviously. The oft-cited “4% rule” of retirement assumes a 30 year retirement. That’s living until age 95 if you retire at the “usual” age of 65. When I engaged a financial advisor in the lead-up to retirement, the charts stopped at age 95 as well.

It depends on whether you want to leave an estate to your beneficiaries

Want to die with nothing6? Then you need less money than if you want to leave assets behind. It’s a pretty fundamental question. And if you want to leave assets behind, then how much? And to who? (You do have an up to date will, right?)

It depends on what your CPP and OAS payments are likely to look like

CPP is dependent on how long you’ve been contributing to the plan, up to a maximum that is published annually7. You can take CPP as early as age 60, and as late as age 70, with penalities/bonuses accumulating every month. CPP needs to be applied for before the cheques start rolling in.

OAS is dependent on how long you’ve lived in the country. If you’ve lived here for 40 years or more, then you qualify for the maximum payment of $742.31 at age 65 and automatically starts at age 658 (for most people) unless you specifically ask for it to be deferred.

It depends on how much income you’re intending to make in retirement

The CPP isn’t designed to pay a living wage9. For this reason, many people “ease” into retirement by working part-time or on short-term contracts. This income impacts the answer to the original question — obviously, if you are earning money, then the retirement nest egg can be smaller.

It depends on what your retirement assets are invested in

This, in my view, is frequently overlooked. The fact is that retirement can be quite long, and assets invested in a retirement portfolio still have growth potential. My retirement assets are 80% equities, 15% bonds, 5% cash. This provides me with more growth potential at the risk of having to weather periods of market volatility. I’m comfortable with that degree of risk, but others may not be. Having a lower exposure to equities means your nest egg needs to be bigger.

It depends on future inflation

Inflation can fluctuate a lot over the course of retirement. Take the last 30 years as an example:

CPI for last 30 years, courtesy StatsCan (https://www150.statcan.gc.ca/n1/pub/71-607-x/2018016/cpilg-ipcgl-eng.htm)

Inflation is really the biggest concern in my retirement since most of my current income is not inflation-protected10.

My approach? Knowledge and a willingness to be flexible

What kind of knowledge?

  • I had a sense of what my budget desires were
  • I knew my retirement portfolio was going to stay 80% equities
  • I knew I had no pensions outside of CPP/OAS. With advice from my advisor, this lead to the current plan to defer these pensions to age 70 so I can maximize my inflation-protected income.
  • My advisor advised me that I had enough saved up that I could retire

But I gained additional, non-data-driven knowledge:

  • no realistic plan lasts 30 years11
  • that market returns are highly variable12, that inflation is highly variable, that my personal spending budget is highly variable
  • that I have always, always, always, adapted to life changes (income, expenses) by either being looser or tighter with money.

The decumulation strategy I use (VPW, Variable Percentage Withdrawal, talked about here) is deceptively simple, but requires you to be flexible, as your monthly calculated salary is based on your net worth. My salary has generally ticked upwards in the past 12 months, but it could just as easily turn in the other direction in the event of a sustained market downturn. I’ve decided I can live with that. And if you want to see a much longer test in action, check out longinvest’s VPW forward test at https://tinyurl.com/vpwForwardTest.

My final thoughts: be suspicious of a specific answer to “how much do you need to retire”? It depends on so many factors, including your own propensity to adapt to changing conditions, that a simple answer doesn’t seem possible — or reasonable.

  1. And does it change over time? I expect my budget needs are higher now than they will be in the future, when presumably I’m less able/willing to travel. ↩︎
  2. If you own a car ↩︎
  3. If you own a house ↩︎
  4. A lot of my spending takes place using my credit card so I can collect the free money offered. ↩︎
  5. A bit crude, but once in a while it flags something for me: https://www.cibc.com/en/personal-banking/ways-to-bank/mobile-services/insights.html ↩︎
  6. Doing this with 100% accuracy would imply you know the date of your own demise, so probably not a realistic objective ↩︎
  7. And is currently $1507.65/month if you’re 65 this year. ↩︎
  8. This one thing I did learn from the PWL webinar: that for most of us, unless you take action, the OAS will start when you turn 65. ↩︎
  9. Per the CPP website (emphasis mine): “The Canada Pension Plan (CPP) retirement pension is a monthly, taxable benefit that replaces part of your income when you retire” ↩︎
  10. Owning equities is a sort of imperfect inflation hedge since equity prices, like all prices, are influenced by it. ↩︎
  11. I’m reminded of the famous quote by Mike Tyson: “Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the mouth” ↩︎
  12. One year after paying for my retirement plan that informed me I was still three years from retirement, I retired. Why? My retirement savings had blown past “the number” I was advised to hit. And, after a year of retirement, my net worth is 10% higher than when I started retirement. The market sometimes works in your favour. ↩︎

Quick links for the long weekend

(Quick aside: as a retiree, I did have to make sure this coming weekend was, in fact, a long weekend 🙂 )

What’s the deal with AOA?: updated

While many Canadians are familiar with all-in-one products that trade on the Canadian exchanges (XEQT/XGRO, VEQT/VGRO, TEQT/TGRO, ZEQT/ZGRO), there is also a USD product that I use quite heavily in my retirement portfolio. That ETF is AOA. In this updated post, I break down what’s inside it. TL/DR: lots of US Equity, lots of International Equity, a tiny slice of Canadian equity, and broad coverage of the US and international bond markets.

Rob Carrick is back in (digital) print

One of my favourite ex-Globe And Mail staffers was Rob Carrick, the keyboard behind such valuable assets as the ETF Buyer’s Guide. He retired last year, but it seems he’s back doing the same job in a different way. He’s now writing on Substack, and you can find his words of wisdom over here: https://substack.com/@robcarrick1.

PWL on Retirement: “Finding and Funding a Good Life”

Not a new publication, but new to me…It’s penned by Ben Felix, a certified Canadian financial rockstar. Looks like a good read over a cup of coffee. Finding and Funding a Good Life.

What’s in my retirement portfolio (Jan 2026)?

This is a monthly look at what’s in my retirement portfolio. The original post is here.

Portfolio Construction

The retirement portfolio is spread across a bunch of accounts:

  • 6 RRIF accounts
    • 3 for me (Questrade, QTrade, Wealthsimple)
    • 3 for my spouse (Questrade, QTrade)
  • 2 TFSA accounts (Questrade)
  • 4 non-registered accounts, (1 for me, 1 for my spouse, 2 joint, all at Questrade)

The view post-payday

I pay myself monthly in retirement, so that’s a good trigger to update this post. On January 26, this is what it looks like:

The portfolio is dominated by my ETF all-stars, but if you’ve been following along, you’ll see a few changes.

  • As mentioned in a previous post, I did some shifting around and you now see XAW and XIC increasing their contribution to the portfolio at the expense of XGRO.
  • I also tidied up some extra funds that aren’t needed — VCN was replaced with XIC1, and I turfed some small holdings.
  • I sold more HXT than I needed to for my monthly paycheque, and when I discovered the mistake2, I just bought XIC instead.
  • And, I did my quarterly Norbert’s Gambit to shift some AOA to XGRO. And again, I came out ahead!

Plan for the next month

The asset-class split looks like this; you can read about my asset-allocation approach to investing over here.

It’s looking pretty close to the targets I have, which are unchanged:

  • 5% cash or cash-like holdings like ICSH and ZMMK
  • 15% bonds (most are buried in XGRO and AOA, some are in XCB)
  • 20% Canadian equity (mostly based on ETFs that mirror the S&P/TSX)
  • 36% US equity (dominated by ETFs that mirror the S&P 500)
  • 24% International equity (mostly, but not exclusively, developed markets)

Overall

Net worth overall is up month over month, reversing a 2 month losing streak and hitting a new all-time-high:

My VPW-calculated salary resumed its upward trend, also hitting an all-time high.

My QTrade RRIFs should move perhaps this week, but I’m no longer confident about that. More on that once resolved.

  1. Which, in my mind, are equivalent. This post goes in lots more detail. ↩︎
  2. I had to do some quick manual calculations because I had already updated my auto-calculating spreadsheet to reflect fewer RRIF accounts. My RRIF transfers are 2 months in progress and counting. I guess trying to move a RRIF near the end of the year was a bad idea. ↩︎

Portfolio Optimization In Practice

My retirement portfolio is spread across multiple brokers and multiple accounts. And although I treat the portfolio as a unified entity when it comes to asset allocation (the concept is discussed here), different accounts have different allocations. The reasons are varied, but I would rank inertia as one of the big contributors — sticking with what’s there seems like a lot less effort than the other options.

What I think in important to point out is that the portfolio is still dealing with inflows and outflows every single month:

  • I pay myself RRIF minimum from my RRIF accounts, and this usually means selling some shares of XGRO
  • If RRIF minimum isn’t sufficient for my expenses (and it hasn’t been), then I have to liquidate shares from my non-registered account.
  • I contribute to our TFSAs every month
  • Questrade gives me free money every month as a reward for shifting assets their way (see how I did it here). This money shows up in my non-registered accounts1.
  • Dividends show up every month2; every quarter there is an even bigger distribution
  • And quarterly I convert some of my AOA holdings to XGRO within my RRIF using Norbert’s Gambit3. When I do this, it reduces my US and international equity holdings and replaces it with Canadian equity4.

So given all these ins and outs, there are always opportunities to tweak the asset allocations so that they remain close to my targets.

The targets, as always, are unchanged:

  • 5% Cash (mostly ultra short-term bonds)
  • 15% bonds
  • 20% Canadian Equity
  • 36% US Equity
  • 24% International Equity

Last week, a reader’s question (please send questions or comments to comments@moneyengineer.ca) led me to take a different look at what was in each of my retirement accounts (RRIFs, TFSAs, non-registered), and this week I acted on correcting a flaw in the way the accounts were structured.

The reader was actually asking about foreign withholding tax implications since the rules are different depending on whether the asset is held in non-registered, TFSA or RRIF but after spending a lot of time looking at it, I decided that, from a tax perspective, the portfolio was actually in reasonable shape. (If you want to dive into this yourself5, you can read https://www.finiki.org/wiki/Foreign_withholding_taxes and https://pwlcapital.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/2017-12_Ben-Felix_WP_Asset-Location-Uncertainty.pdf).

But this study did make me realize that the small allocation I had of bonds in my TFSA was wrong-headed. Since in my planning the TFSA is the LAST place I’ll head to fund my retirement, it follows that it should have the longest-timeline investments. So, for me, that means 100% equity is the correct allocation for the TFSA accounts. So what did I do?

  • I sold the bonds in my TFSA (XSH was the ETF), and put them in my RRIF (choosing instead to use XCB, a longer-duration corporate bond fund)
  • Of course, since you can’t add money to a RRIF, something had to be sold there. XGRO was plentiful, so that’s how I funded the bond purchase. From an asset allocation perspective, selling XGRO meant that I reduced my Canadian, International and US Equity exposure at the same time.
  • To compensate, the cash I generated in my TFSA by selling XSH was used to buy a combination of XIC (Canadian Equity) and XAW (US and International equity combined). XIC was already in the TFSA6. XAW is new but gives back the US Equity and International Equity I lost by selling XGRO7.

This is how the two accounts break down now, both from an ETF and an asset-allocation perspective. (In the asset allocation charts “Income” is the nomenclature I use for “bonds” and “Cash” means actual money as well as ultra-short-term bond funds like ICSH and ZMMK).

The result is my TFSA is now 100% equity, and the lower-growth cash-generating bonds are now all in my RRIF accounts. More efficient all around!

  1. Leaving the free money as part of the retirement portfolio was a conscious decision. I could have just as easily decided to withdraw the money every month. ↩︎
  2. Both ZMMK and ICSH pay monthly. They are both featured in my ETF all-stars. ↩︎
  3. You can read about it here. ↩︎
  4. AOA is 50% US equity, 28% International equity. XGRO is 36% US Equity, 24% International Equity. ↩︎
  5. It’s not a straightforward topic. In the end, the foreign withholding tax isn’t huge but as a cheapskate, it’s noticeable and can be higher than MERs of the ETFs you hold. ↩︎
  6. XIC helps tilt the overall Canadian equity allocations in the right direction. AOA tilts it in the wrong direction. ↩︎
  7. The current numbers don’t allow me to use an XEQT/XIC combination. Over time, this will change. ↩︎