Significant birthdays for the DIY Investor

There are significant birthdays every DIY investor should be aware of. Did you know about all of them?

The list below is a gross simplification — like all things in the Canadian Tax code, the exceptions and caveats fill many pages, but this is roughly correct. I’ve included links so you can read the relevant sections yourself and see if you agree with my simplifications!

The day of your child’s birth

Per the feds, a birth certificate for your child is all you need to apply for a Social Insurance Number. And although their working days are far into the future, their RESP eligibility starts right away — but you can’t open an RESP for a child unless that child has a SIN. The lifetime limit for donations to an RESP is currently set at $50k/child. The sooner those contributions start, the sooner you can collect free money (the CESG, $500/year, $7200 per child lifetime), and the longer your contributions can benefit from the power of compounding.

Your 18th birthday

This is significant one for a number of reasons!

TFSA

Once you turn 181, you can open a TFSA and begin contributing. Even if you don’t start contributing, your TFSA limit starts to accumulate the year you turn 18. In 2025, that annual limit is $7000 per year, and it grows at the rate of inflation2. It’s cumulative, so it’s not a “use it now or lose it forever” kind of proposition. At the start of every calendar year, there are a flurry of announcements indicating the new annual limit.

You can contribute to your TFSA forever, even in retirement. I am!

CPP contributions kick in

If you’re over 18 and earn more than $3500 a year, you’ll have to pay CPP contributions. While current you may balk at this sort of reduction in your take-home pay, future you will appreciate the inflation-index adjusted salary you can collect later in life.

FHSA

You can open a First Home Savings Account on your 18th birthday…or maybe your 19th birthday3. And the year you open it, you add $8000 in eligible contribution room…which continues every year, to a maximum of $40000.

Your 19th birthday

The so-called “age of majority4” in Ontario allows you to roll in free money in the forms of GST credits, Trillium benefits5 (in Ontario) and carbon tax credits6 . The cost of admission is filing a tax return. No excuses — plenty of online providers offer free returns for “simple” returns and my friends at Wealthsimple offer “pay what you want” tax filing.

This is also a time you are eligible to open an RRSP7, which may make sense if you’re already maxing out your TFSA contributions.

Your 35th birthday (or later)

An RESP can only be open for 35 years.

Your 60th birthday

This is the first year you can choose to collect CPP; generally speaking, most experts recommend that you delay collecting CPP for as long as possible, for two reasons:

  • It may be the only inflation-protected income you have (this applies to me, I have no other pension)
  • You get more money the longer you wait. (you lose 0.6% of payment for every month you start before your 65th birthday. That adds up to a reduction of 36% if you start on the day you turn 60).

My tools page includes the very helpful CPP calculator, which can help you make a decision concerning your CPP start date.

Your 65th birthday

This is the first year you can choose to collect OAS. Experts are a little more split on whether or not to delay this one — the benefits to delaying to age 70 are not as strong as for CPP8. My plan is to delay, as it’s another inflation-adjusted benefit.

If you’re collecting any sort of pension (RRIF payments, CPP, employer pension) this is the first age at which you can split that income with your spouse. This can reduce your tax bill.

Your 70th birthday

You have to start taking CPP and OAS by this time.

Your 71st birthday

You can no longer contribute to an RRSP and you have to open a RRIF. Lots of the literature out there seems to imply that this is the ONLY time you can open a RRIF, but rest assured, there’s no minimum age for opening a RRIF — I’ve been collecting from mine since the start of the year 🙂

Your 85th birthday

This is the last year you can start collecting from an ALDA (advanced life deferred annuity) you have set up. The ALDA is a vehicle I just learned about, and need to do a bit more research. It may be a way to fund income in your later years when the complexity of managing withdrawals in a DIY fashion may be too cognitively overwhelming.

What birthdays are you thinking about? Let me know at comments@moneyengineer.ca.

  1. Or possibly 19, depending on where you live. ↩︎
  2. But only in increments of $500. Even though inflation is drifting back down to more usual levels, doing the math indicates that we should expect more frequent increases in the TFSA limits in the years to come. Adding $500 to a $7000 limit (a 7% bump)is a lot easier than adding $500 to a $5000 limit (a 10% bump) ↩︎
  3. Per https://www.canada.ca/en/revenue-agency/services/tax/individuals/topics/first-home-savings-account/opening-your-fhsas.html “certain provinces and territories, the legal age at which an individual can enter into a contract (which includes opening an FHSA) is 19 years old” ↩︎
  4. This language is so opaque, it’s like a parody of government speak. Or maybe it’s a commentary on the aging demographic of Ontario? ↩︎
  5. Some of the benefits even kick in earlier ↩︎
  6. A limited time offer, presumably ↩︎
  7. Per CRA, there is NO minimum age at which you can open an RRSP. Contributing to an RRSP requires that you enter into a contract (meaning you have to be of an age that permits this, either 18 or 19) and you have to earn money. ↩︎
  8. It’s still 0.6% per month of delay, or 36% over 5 years. That’s pretty good RoI, in my view. ↩︎

USD Assets in the retirement portfolio. Good idea?

I’m not sure when I first made a purchase of a USD-denominated ETF. Probably over 10 years ago. Clearly, I thought it was a good idea, because as of today I find that 57% of my retirement savings1 are denominated in US Dollars.

And unlike other people I’ve talked to, there’s no underlying rationale for that. I’ve never earned employment income in USD and I don’t own property in the US. So why?

I’m a cheapskate.

I started investing in USD based ETFs simply because they were a much better deal than their Canadian equivalents. This is less true now than it used to be, but it’s still true. Take for example the comparison between comparable USD and CAD ETFs that track the same index:

IndexWhat’s in itUSD ETFMERCAD ETFMER
S&P 500Top 500 US stocksIVV0.03%VFV, XUS0.09%
Russell 20002000 mid-market US StocksVTWO0.07%XSU2, RSSX30.36% for XSU, 0.25% for RSSX
FTSE Developed ex USGlobal stocks outside of the USASCHF0.06%VDU0.22%
USD versus CAD ETFs tracking the same index4

The Canadian market has become more competitive, and MERs have come down, but given the size of the US market, it’s still cheaper to invest there.

I’m not a very savvy cheapskate.

So although the MERs of US ETFs were stunningly attractive, I failed to consider the cost of currency conversion. For this I blame naivete as well as a lack of transparency on the part of my provider. It was not possible for me to easily figure out how much each CAD to USD transaction was costing me. A good estimate is about 1.5% the cost of the transaction, but some providers make this much cheaper5.

I also had USD investments in my TFSAs, which, from a tax perspective, isn’t the best idea.

Over time, I discovered the joys of Norbert’s Gambit to do currency transactions on the cheap and I became more savvy. And I eliminated all US holdings from my TFSA.

Preparing for Retirement

In preparing my portfolio for retirement (steps I took are outlined here), I did seriously consider converting everything to CAD in the interest of keeping things simple. I did not, and here’s why:

  • I figured that having ready access to USD would be rather useful to retired me, since I do vacation there. And I had made other preparations in light of that, setting up a USD credit card and USD savings account for RRIF payments to go to.
  • Although I knew that having USD RRIFs would make getting paid in retirement more complicated, I thought I had worked out a plan with my provider6 that would make extracting USD RRIF payments achievable, with some effort on my part.
  • I sort-of liked having some of my investments in USD since it’s a stable currency. Usually.
  • I also liked the additional boost I got from USD HISAs. (That’s probably an anomaly but one I’m happy to take advantage of)
  • I could change my mind at any time.

Current Reality

This isn’t working like I thought it would.

My provider decided to backtrack on allowing me to extract USD from my USD RRIF;7 we’re still going back and forth on that front, but my friends at QTrade are on my naughty list as a result. I’m not hopeful.

What it means practically is that although the value of my USD RRIF is used to calculate my RRIF minimums, I can only withdraw RRIF payments from the Canadian side. At present, the Canadian side of my RRIF will fund my RRIF minimum payments for a while, but at some point I’ll have to use Norbert’s Gambit to move funds from the USD RRIF to the CAD RRIF.

My Advice

I don’t think that holding USD assets in retirement — especially in a RRIF — is a great idea for the DIYer. Unless platform providers give really clear processes8 for how to extract that money from a USD RRIF, expect trouble.

At some point, I will either switch providers to find one that supports my requirements9, or I will convert everything to CAD. Right now, I have a process that works, but older me I expect will find it too complicated.

  1. Majority of the USD holdings are in my / my spouse’s RRIF; small portion is in my non-registered account. ↩︎
  2. Not an apples to apples comparison, admittedly. This ETF is hedged so it’s less impacted by changes in the CAD/USD exchange rate but this comes at a cost. ↩︎
  3. This is ALMOST the same thing; RSSX uses a capped version of the index ↩︎
  4. And try as I might, I couldn’t find a USD ETF that invested in the TSX/S&P 60. Not really surprising, and my USD retirement holdings have very limited Canadian exposure. AOA has about 2.4% Canadian exposure. ↩︎
  5. Notably, Interactive Brokers and lately, Wealthsimple especially if you hold more than 100k with them. ↩︎
  6. Involving multiple phone conversations and multiple emails ↩︎
  7. You may ask, “what’s the point of having a USD RRIF if you can’t extract USD from it”? I had the same question… ↩︎
  8. RBC says they support it and so does Questrade. ↩︎
  9. I had sorely hoped Wealthsimple could be that provider, but (sigh) they don’t support spousal RRIFs at the moment. ↩︎

What’s in my retirement portfolio (Feb 2025)

This is a (hopefully monthly) look at what’s in my retirement portfolio. The original post is here.

Portfolio Construction

The retirement portfolio is spread across a bunch of accounts:

  • 7 RRIF accounts (3 for me1, 3 for my spouse, 1 at an alternative provider as a test)
  • 2 TFSA accounts
  • 5 non-registered accounts2, (2 for me 1 for my spouse, 2 joint)

The target for the overall portfolio is unchanged:

  • 80% equity, spread across Canadian, US and global markets for maximum diversification
  • 15% Bond funds, from a variety of Canadian, US and global markets
  • 5% cash, held in high interest savings accounts (list available to me shown here)

The view as of this morning

As of this morning, this is what the overall portfolio looks like:

Overall retirement portfolio by holding, February 2025

The portfolio, as always, is dominated by AOA and XGRO which are 80/20 asset allocation funds in USD and CAD, respectively. The rest are primarily either cash holdings in HISAs (DYN6004/5 in CAD and USD) or residual ETFs held in non-registered accounts for which I don’t want to create unnecessary capital gains just for the sake of holding AOA or XGRO.

The biggest month over month change is due to a small re-balancing exercise. I replaced some of my XGRO (which is an 80/20 equity/Bond asset allocation fund) with XEQT (a 100% equity asset allocation fund). I do re-balancing any time my asset allocation drifts more than 1% off my target allocations3. The trigger for me was an overweighting in bonds, which had drifted to represent 16% of my portfolio instead of the desired 15%. Upon reflection, the reason was obvious: both AOA and XGRO are 20% bonds, and if I want only 15% bonds, I will periodically need to fund an all-equity alternative. The net effect will be that you will see more XEQT show up in the portfolio over time.

The observant reader will also notice a bit of a shift between DYN6004 and DYN6005. The reason? I raided some USD from DYN6005 to pay my US credit card bill and replaced it with CAD in DYN6004 using the spot FX rate at the time. Seemed the easiest way to get some USD4 without having to resort to my friends at Knightsbridge.

SCHF percentages drifted down a bit since that’s the ETF I’m selling in my non-registered portfolio to augment my monthly RRIF payments. That will continue for the next few months at least since the USD payouts are needed to fund a few holidays5 I’m taking that are billed in USD.

Otherwise, nothing interesting to see in the month to month changes.

Plan for the next month

The geographic split looks like this

Overall retirement portfolio by market, February 2025

The international equity percentage is below my target of 24%, and so I’ll have to fix that. SCHF seems a good choice in USD6 since it’s free to trade with QTrade. XEF would be a perfect fit in the Canadian market.

A quarterly activity that I’ll be performing this month is to shift some of my USD RRIF holdings into my CAD RRIF. This wasn’t something I had planned to do but since my provider has backtracked on allowing me to get paid out of my USD RRIF in USD, I needed a way to keep the USD exposure at a constant-ish level in the overall portfolio. I’ll talk about the USD in my portfolio in a future dedicated post.

One final note: my retirement savings continue to grow even though I’m now actively removing assets out of it. On paper, this makes perfect sense since an 80/15/5 portfolio ought to grow at a rate greater than my rate of removal. In practice, of course, it’s rather stock market dependent. Here’s the monthly returns for the 2 ETFs that make up the lion’s share of my portfolio7.

XGRO and AOA monthly returns so far8
  1. For me, that’s one personal RRIF that has 2 accounts, one for CAD, one for USD, and one spousal RRIF. My spouse has one spousal RRIF in two currencies, and a personal RRIF. The alternative provider RRIF exists because I wanted to give Wealthsimple a try. ↩︎
  2. For me, two because one each for CAD and USD. The 2 joint accounts are my cash cushion accounts for the VPW methodology outlined here and here. ↩︎
  3. Completely spreadsheet-driven. I don’t trade on news, analyses, gut feelings, hot tips, or guesses. ↩︎
  4. I did hesitate a bit because the interest rate on DYN6005 is over 1% higher, but given the amounts involved, I’m clearly overthinking things. ↩︎
  5. All booked before this current tariff nonsense. Sorry. ↩︎
  6. Although it does have a 9% exposure to the Canadian market so not 100% “international”. Hard to beat the MER of this, though. ↩︎
  7. I don’t think this tool accounts for FX so it’s probably not totally accurate. Check out https://moneyengineer.ca/tools-i-use/ for other useful tools. Canadian dollar gained 1.4% against the USD in the past 30 days, per https://www.bankofcanada.ca/rates/exchange/daily-exchange-rates/ so that will reduce the effective return of AOA by the same amount. ↩︎
  8. “Without dividends reinvested” since these two ETFs only pay out quarterly. There haven’t been any yet. ↩︎

Caution! Spousal RRSP/RRIF Attribution Rules

Summary: The spousal RRSP is a great way to reduce current taxes, but if you’re planning on using the money in that spousal RRSP soon, be aware of the rules concerning who declares the income!

Disclaimer: As this article will demonstrate, I’m not a tax expert, lawyer, CPA or anything else. Use with discretion, some assembly required.

I made substantial use of spousal RRSPs during my working life. Spousal RRSPs are a way for the higher earning spouse to take advantage of the lower earning spouse’s unused RRSP contribution room, thus leading to a lower overall tax bill1. All good so far.

Some vocabulary will help with the next bit.

  • The contributor is the person providing the cash for the spousal RRSP and is the one who gets the tax deduction. Usually this is the higher income spouse.
  • The annuitant is the person whose name is on the spousal RRSP statements. This is usually the lower income spouse.

What most primers on spousal RRSPs don’t mention is that there is a restriction when it comes to withdrawing from the RRSP2. Paraphrasing the source material:

If the annuitant withdraws from a spousal RRSP within three years of the last contribution, the income from that withdrawal is considered to belong to the contributor, not the annuitant.

What? Why?

As with all things, there’s no free lunch. CRA doesn’t want to make tax avoidance so easy3, so this little detail will prevent the purely hypothetical scenario of a higher earning spouse making a large spousal RRSP contribution in the last year of their employment, and then getting the lower earning spouse to take out that same money at a much lower tax rate when the calendar moves from December to January.

There is one, small, bone that CRA throws our way in this case. Paraphrasing again:

If the annuitant withdrawal is instead made via a spousal RRIF, and the payment is RRIF minimum, then fine, the annuitant can declare that income.

So, as long as our lower income annuitant spouse opens a spousal RRIF, and as long as for the three years4 following the last spousal contribution, that spousal RRIF only pays out RRIF minimums, then all is well. The annuitant spouse declares the income, as expected.

Now of course, this rule may not matter to you. If you’re newly retired and don’t have much in the way of income, then it may not trouble you that you have to declare the income from your spouse’s spousal RRIF/RRSP. It’s just a bit more paperwork (a T2205, looks like).

In my case, I’m only taking RRIF minimums for the time being. So no extra paperwork for me.

  1. And future income splitting before the age of 65 when the option becomes available to all. ↩︎
  2. I’ve never myself made a withdrawal from an RRSP. That would break my rule of keeping retirement savings firewalled. And it looks to me to be an expensive proposition — your provider will surely charge a deregistration fee, your provider will have to withhold tax, and you have declare the full amount as income in the year you grab it. ↩︎
  3. I have learned to be guided by the humbling tenet of: “If I think I’ve figured out a way to outsmart the taxman, it’s probable that I’m simply demonstrating an incomplete understanding of how it actually works….” ↩︎
  4. To illustrate/clarify: the rule applies in the year the contribution is made, and the previous two years. So the contribution I made in 2024 will be free from all constraints in the 2027 tax year. ↩︎

Getting paid in retirement: a DIY challenge

Summary: The mechanical details of getting paid in retirement require careful review of how your provider allows cash movements between accounts, a handle on how much money is coming in via a RRIF, and, for bonus points, an annual decumulation plan to minimize household taxes.

I covered how I get paid in retirement previously, but this was nothing more than a restatement of how VPW (Variable Percentage Withdrawal) works. My reality is not quite as simple as the Idealized Monthly Routine I laid out in that post.

The actual work required looks more like this:

Actual monthly work needed to get paid in retirement

The first 3 steps are the ones I covered in the last post, and there’s nothing new to talk about there. In brief, you calculate your retirement savings, enter that number into the VPW spreadsheet, and out pops the monthly VPW suggestion (“v”), which is then added to the current value of your cash cushion (“c”) to calculate your salary (“s”).

It’s probably worth noting what specific accounts I hold at my provider to make things a bit clearer1

  • There are 4 total RRIF accounts (two for me, two for my spouse)
  • There are 2 non-registered accounts that hold retirement investments (one for me, one for my spouse)
  • There is 1 non-registered joint account that serves the role of VPW’s cash cushion, which is invested in DYN6004 so I can earn a bit of risk-free interest.

So ideally, my RRIF payments would flow into the cash cushion account, and I would pay myself out of the cash cushion account to my everyday joint chequing account. That is unfortunately NOT how it works.

Let’s pick up the process starting at step 4.

Do the RRIF minimum payments cover the calculated salary?

When I opened my RRIF accounts (and yes, there’s more than one2), one of the questions asked was “what bank account should the payments go to?” Asking for RRIF payments to go to a non-registered account was not presented as an option, and it’s not possible. So already the simple RRIF to cash cushion transaction outlined in the ideal scenario wasn’t possible.

The other questions asked by my provider was: how much do you want to be paid? (RRIF minimum, some percentage/amount higher than that, gross/net?)

(If you’re new to the RRIF world, or if you think that RRIFs are just for 71-year-olds, you may want to check out my previous post on debunking this and other myths.)

The amount each of my RRIFs3 pays me monthly is a well-known fact since I opted to collect RRIF minimum from each RRIF — and RRIF minimum is based on my RRIF value and age as of January 1, 2025. It will stay constant throughout 2025. So while simple, the amounts involved aren’t enough to pay my suggested salary. I’m free to ignore the suggested salary and simply (try to) live off my RRIF minimums, but that would be counter to my “you can’t take it with you” ethos. And so, I have to augment my RRIF minimum salary with money from elsewhere.

If your RRIF minimum payments are higher than the salary, then I suppose it makes sense to re-invest those payments somewhere. Or give the money away. Up to you 🙂

Sell required assets in non-registered account and move $ manually

The title is clear enough — sell something in the non-registered portfolio and use it to make up the salary shortfall. But whose holdings4? Which ones?

To help me decide, at the beginning of the year, I played around with tax scenarios using the calculators referenced in Tools I Use to concoct a high level plan on how to best minimize my household’s collective tax bill. (This was a tip my financial advisor gave me; her advice was to try to pay no more than an average tax rate of 15%5).

I assumed my income sources were

  • My RRIF minimum payments (same for my spouse)
  • My spouse’s salary
  • Minor dividend income6
  • Capital gains caused by the sale of non-registered assets7

Since the first three items above were already known, there was no decision to make; the tax owing on those was already clear8. The capital gains were the only variable — how much should I take versus my spouse? There was a bit of estimation involved in the actual amounts here (the actual gains would depend on the actual sale price), but it gave me a high level plan for 20259. Any additional income needed would be paid by capital gains realized from MY holdings since my income was forecast to be lower than that of my spouse10.

With the pre-work done, it boils down to making the required sell trade, waiting two days for the cash to settle, and then clicking the right buttons to get the cash out of my investment account and into my chequing account. Should be simple, but if you’ve never done it before, you need to make sure it’s all working as you expect.

Sell required assets in RRIF

Yes, you have to make sure that there’s cash available in your RRIF accounts (and remember, I have 4) BEFORE the monthly payment goes out. My provider would only be too happy to do this on my behalf, charging me their “telephone trading rates” for the trade — something like $30 plus $0.06 a share for XGRO. Compared with “free” if I do the work myself, that’s a pretty decent hourly rate…Do not forget that it takes two days for a trade to settle into cash. Since my provider does not pay interest on cash holdings, I’m highly motivated to keep any cash balance to a strict minimum. I hate not earning money on my money.

Adjust cash cushion up or down by comparing VPW suggestion to calculated salary

In my previous post I talked about moving “v” to the cash cushion and then simply taking 1/6th of it as salary. And that is exactly what I do. But practically, it’s impossible to do this maneuver in exactly the way I describe with my current provider (QTrade). Here are the specific reasons I can’t do what VPW asks me to do:

  • QTrade RRIF payments must be made to an external bank account. So right away, part of my salary cannot flow through an intermediary cash cushion account.
  • QTrade does not allow cash transfers between non-registered accounts on their online platform. This means that the asset sales in my non-registered account cannot be moved directly to the cash cushion accounts either11.

I have worked around the limitations imposed by my provider by either

  • moving money from my chequing account to my cash cushion if the VPW suggestion is higher than my salary (market is moving up)
  • moving money from the cash cushion to my chequing account if my salary is higher than the VPW suggestion (market is moving down)

I have set up smart-ish spreadsheets to break down all the various movements of money which I will share at some point once I figure out how to make them a bit more generic. I’ve also documented a step-by-step guide for my spouse which she uses as we sit together walking through the monthly tasks12 so that I have confidence she could execute on them if I became incapacitated. There is no substitute for handing over the controls to see where the gaps in knowledge — and documentation — are.

The future

Having witnessed what happens to savvy adults as they get older, I know deep down that this DIY strategy isn’t sustainable forever. There are too many moving parts, and too many opportunities to make mistakes.

At present, I don’t have a future plan mapped out. I have updated my “death binder“, but beyond this, nothing more. I will dedicate more research (and future posts) on that topic.

  1. For your benefit I have not mentioned the USD variants I have of a few of these. This post is long enough as it is, and I presume that most readers don’t hold assets that are traded on US stock exchanges. ↩︎
  2. My own RRIF and my spousal RRIF account for two, and my spouse has two as well. Total four. They are with the same provider. Spousal RRIFs are generated from spousal RRSPs, in case you were wondering. If you deal with more than one RRIF provider (I would NOT recommend that), you’ll also have to consider that. All this to say that I saw 4 distinct payments made to my joint chequing account on Friday last week, one for each of the 4 RRIFs. ↩︎
  3. I keep saying “my RRIFs” for simplicity, but all 4 RRIFs (2 in my name, 2 in my spouse’s) are treated the same way. All four payments end up in our joint chequing account. ↩︎
  4. Both my spouse and I have non-registered accounts. My spouse’s was funded via a spousal loan I set up years ago to achieve some degree of income splitting. ↩︎
  5. After years of thinking of taxation in terms of what I paid on the LAST dollar I earned, this was admittedly a very different way of considering the problem. ↩︎
  6. Most of my dividend income (via XGRO and AOA) is buried in my RRIF and TFSA to avoid any taxation of it ↩︎
  7. Because I make a lot of use of HXS and HXT in my non-registered portfolio, I earn no dividend income; it’s all capital gains… ↩︎
  8. If you’re not aware, RRIF payments are treated as no-special-treatment taxable income, reported on a T4-RIF form by CRA. ↩︎
  9. Since I get paid monthly, I could always adapt if my assumptions were radically off. ↩︎
  10. I could have also paid the extra from my TFSA holdings, but my advisor suggested that this is the LAST bucket to use in retirement. ↩︎
  11. Unless I like waiting on hold. I do not. ↩︎
  12. Who says romance is dead? ↩︎