Death, Taxes and Estates: Part 1

RobH4 Comments

I am not a lawyer, accountant or tax expert. Your situation may be a lot different than mine. Seek professional guidance if needed.

What happens to our investments when we die? Having lost both my parents in the past 2 years, I’ve (regrettably) had a lot of exposure to the ins of outs of estates and how they work.

Being Ready for the Inevitable

Fact: we’re all going to die. Pretending this isn’t true isn’t helpful to your survivors. So there are some concrete things you should have in place before that happens.

  • Have a will. Whether DIY, software-assisted1, or prepared by a suit, just get it done — here’s a nice step-by-step guide. And if you do have one, is it up to date? Take a look.
  • Have the will name exactly one executor, with alternate executors in the event your first pick isn’t available . Hearing multiple stories from multiple sources about how much extra work and delay having joint executors causes, I cannot recommend this all-too-common approach. You’re not “playing favourites” by naming one person2.
  • Make sure your executor knows how to get a hold of the will. Be very specific, and repeat this information frequently so it’s top-of-mind.
  • Make sure your RRIFs/RRSPs/TFSAs name successors and/or beneficiaries. I covered that topic in more detail here.
  • Make sure any life insurance policies name a beneficiary
  • Make sure your workplace pension3 names a survivor4.
  • Prepare a death binder5 with all assets clearly specified — provider name, account numbers, name on the account. Is the list really long? Maybe it’s time to trim that list down. Every provider on that list will create work for your executor. So if you want to be kind, keep the list of providers small. Make sure your executor knows where to find it.
  • Have a month or two of expenses in cash that is accessible by those who survive you, like in a joint chequing account. Assets held solely in your name will be frozen when you’re dead, possibly for weeks or months.
  • Set up someone (your executor, for example) as your authorized representative with CRA. This makes dealing with taxes much easier for those that you leave behind. How? Read here.

My Situation

My parents held no real estate, and all their assets were held in DIY investments (RRIF, TFSA and non-registered accounts). They each had a will and named the other as the executor with me as the alternate. They dealt with two providers — one for their DIY investments (BMO Investorline) and one for their day-to-day banking (CIBC). So in terms of complexity I think I had it pretty easy.

Dealing with the death of the first parent

My Dad’s death was not a surprise, and because of this I was able to maximize his TFSA contributions before he died. Dad did hate paying taxes.

Although my Mom was legally the executor, I did almost all the work involved. Most providers seemed to be pretty good about dealing with me once they got confirmation from my Mom. The key documents and facts you’ll be asked for in almost every encounter are the same, so have these ready each and every time:

  • Date and place of birth of the deceased
  • Date and place of death of the deceased
  • SIN number of the deceased
  • A death certificate (this is issued by the funeral home, typically)
  • The will
  • Funeral home invoice (if applying for a death benefit)

Dealing with the bank was easy. One 30 minute meeting6 and all was sorted.

As many DIY financial services providers don’t have brick and mortar locations, high quality digital versions7 are also generally accepted. In the case of BMO Investorline, I had to visit a BMO branch8 with the documents so they could send them as “true copies”. How a provider with no affiliation with a bank does this, no idea9.

In the case of any DIY investment held in the deceased’s name — those assets get frozen upon notifying the provider. This can be problematic if one is relying on those assets to say, pay rent, or pay for funeral arrangements.

The unexpected complication arose from the non-registered joint account — it didn’t just “convert” to removing one person’s name from the account — you have to open a new, individual account, involving all the same paperwork as though you were a new client, and then transfer the joint assets “in kind” to the new account. During this time, the funds were not accessible. This is beyond annoying, but I suspect this is the same regardless of who your provider is. My mom lost access to her joint account for about 6 weeks while this was settled.

Taxes for the death of the first parent

The tax return you file for a person who has died in this scenario is called (ominously) the Final Return. A person who dies is treated as though they sold all their assets on the day of death. I did not file a T3 Return10 return for my Dad, since all the assets passed through to my Mom. If he had had non-registered assets held solely in his name, I think I would have had to.

  • For a RRIF or RRSP, this means CRA assumes you sold all the holdings on the day you died and recognized it as income11
  • For a non-registered account held solely in one name, CRA assumes you sold all the holdings on the day of death and recognized any capital gains at that time.

I was able to successfully file the Final Return for my Dad using Wealthsimple’s tax software12. The Final Return cannot be eFiled — you have to print it and send it using snail mail.

Adjustments after the death of the first parent

After my Dad died and my Mom had all the combined TFSA/RRIF assets in place, we updated her TFSA and RRIF to name me and my siblings as beneficiaries by filling out a form. This proved to be helpful in reducing the tax bill a bit when she died. More on that in a future post.

  1. “willful.” seems to be a trendy option nowadays: https://www.willful.co/ ↩︎
  2. One could argue the opposite — just give the duties to your least favourite relative as a last vengeful act ↩︎
  3. Some workplace pensions provide death benefits and/or an ongoing survivor pension, but only if you take the trouble to name a survivor in that pension. ↩︎
  4. And if you do, I’m envious 😉 ↩︎
  5. Paper is probably less trouble than trying to provide a file location/passwords, but YMMV. ↩︎
  6. Prearranged online of course. You can’t just walk into a branch to do anything these days. ↩︎
  7. You’ll get good at this workflow or go crazy trying. Take photo on phone, airdrop to laptop, compress/convert image so it can get through email… ↩︎
  8. Do NOT assume that the brokerage has anything to do with the bank with whom they share a logo. I learned this the hard way with BMO/BMO Investorline. ↩︎
  9. Maybe notarized documents? Let me know at comments@moneyengineer.ca. ↩︎
  10. AKA “Estate Return”. A person who dies becomes a new tax entity, typically named Estate of <dead person> ↩︎
  11. Which is why you name a successor for your RRIF — this tax penalty is thereby avoided ↩︎
  12. It was because Intuit Quicktax could not handle this scenario that I ended my decades-long relationship with them. ↩︎

QTrade versus Questrade unboxing

RobH4 Comments

I’m in the middle of my transition from QTrade to Questrade. With 11 different accounts to migrate, most of my time has been spent with their new account setup screens, but I have already taken note of a few differences that I’ve noticed between the two in my first week of using Questrade.

Trading fees on stocks and ETFs

Questrade recently announced that they were eliminating commissions on the buying and selling of all stocks and ETFs. QTrade has a decent list of free to trade ETFs, but obviously Questrade is the winner here.

Personally, I don’t think this will make a huge difference for me since my retirement portfolio is mostly based on QTrade’s “free” list (most notably XGRO and AOA), but it’s not fully in that camp. I’ll save a few bucks over the course of the year thanks to this.

Support

Those of you who read my mini-review of QTrade will know that I don’t consider their support a strong suit1.

I encountered quite a few snags2 along the way with Questrade’s account opening process, and as a result I have spent some time dealing with their support team.

One big difference you see right away is that they seem to rely exclusively on chat, with very clear (if sometimes disheartening3) queue position metrics. I myself am a fan of chat, especially one that makes it very clear where you are in the queue. Compared with QTrade, no contest — I’ll take keeping a window open on a computer I’m using over having to listen to highly compressed and repetitive hold music any day of the week!

A technical quibble I have with Questrade’s chat is that it is inconsistently persistent as you navigate the Questrade screens4. On more than one occasion I had my chat closed accidentally because I navigated to the “wrong” screen. Compared to other support chat platforms I’ve used (Rogers, for one), it’s decidedly feature-light.

The support I eventually got was uneven. I suppose last week may not have been the best week to attempt calling Questrade5, but all the same, sometimes the answers I got made no sense or were just flat out wrong.

US Dollar Account Support

Both companies are strong in this regard, allowing USD holdings in various accounts. Personally, I hold USD-denominated assets in my RRIF and my non-registered accounts. (I also used to hold USD assets in my TFSA, but because of the non-preferred tax treatment of dividends held in TFSAs, I got rid of those a few years ago).

The big difference that’s obvious immediately is while QTrade keeps the USD and CAD accounts separate — different account numbers, different screens to navigate — Questrade combines CAD and USD assets in one account. This has the pleasant side-effect of reducing the total number of accounts I have.

I haven’t investigated (yet) how values of accounts and portfolios are reported in Questrade6. I’m expecting that they will allow you to see your account and portfolio values in either USD or CAD7.

One of the irritants I had with QTrade is that they never, ever showed the USD/CAD exchange rate they were using to display the overall CAD value of the portfolio. It appeared they were using a rate that was consistently 1.5% below the spot rate.

And another irritant I had with QTrade is that I could not get RRIF payments natively in USD, something I was told was possible before I opened the RRIF in the first place8. Questrade claims they allow this on their public website, so I’m hopeful. More to come at the end of this month, hopefully.

HISA support

High Interest Savings accounts are an important part of my portfolio holdings since my decumulation strategy depends on them. QTrade has an extensive list of free to trade HISAs (I covered them here) but Questrade doesn’t provide access to this class of product. Instead I have to use ETFs. But since all ETFs are free to trade on Questrade, this shouldn’t really make a big deal of difference. In some ways, it’s better because QTrade restricted HISA purchases to a minimum of $1000, whereas most of the cash-oriented ETFs have an entry price of either $50 or $100 per unit.

I find it difficult to get answers to super-specific questions about various platforms, so if you have questions about any of the platforms I use/ have used (namely, BMO Investorline, Interactive Brokers, Wealthsimple, QTrade and Questrade), then feel free to ask away at comments@moneyengineer.ca.

  1. For an example of coherent and attentive customer support, you’d have to look at Wealthsimple ↩︎
  2. Their website appeared to be getting crushed at times…weird sporadic and non-repeatable error messages ↩︎
  3. Last week on one of my calls, I started at position 370 or so. That was a 90 minute wait. But at least I could write blogs while I waited, something that is really irritating to do when you have to listen to hold music. ↩︎
  4. Possibly browser-related, but c’mon, it’s 2025 and I was using OSX Safari! ↩︎
  5. RRSP season, and their generous promo ending… ↩︎
  6. I have accounts, but until the in-kind asset transfer completes, I have no assets. ↩︎
  7. Taking a peek at the mobile app while I write this, I see options for account balances to be reported as “Combined in CAD”, “Combined in USD”, “CAD” and “USD” so it appears my expectations will be met. ↩︎
  8. After two months (!) of back and forth with QTrade, I was told — last week — that this is possible using the exact same method I unsuccessfully attempted in January. ↩︎

Significant birthdays for the DIY Investor

RobHLeave a comment

There are significant birthdays every DIY investor should be aware of. Did you know about all of them?

The list below is a gross simplification — like all things in the Canadian Tax code, the exceptions and caveats fill many pages, but this is roughly correct. I’ve included links so you can read the relevant sections yourself and see if you agree with my simplifications!

The day of your child’s birth

Per the feds, a birth certificate for your child is all you need to apply for a Social Insurance Number. And although their working days are far into the future, their RESP eligibility starts right away — but you can’t open an RESP for a child unless that child has a SIN. The lifetime limit for donations to an RESP is currently set at $50k/child. The sooner those contributions start, the sooner you can collect free money (the CESG, $500/year, $7200 per child lifetime), and the longer your contributions can benefit from the power of compounding.

Your 18th birthday

This is significant one for a number of reasons!

TFSA

Once you turn 181, you can open a TFSA and begin contributing. Even if you don’t start contributing, your TFSA limit starts to accumulate the year you turn 18. In 2025, that annual limit is $7000 per year, and it grows at the rate of inflation2. It’s cumulative, so it’s not a “use it now or lose it forever” kind of proposition. At the start of every calendar year, there are a flurry of announcements indicating the new annual limit.

You can contribute to your TFSA forever, even in retirement. I am!

CPP contributions kick in

If you’re over 18 and earn more than $3500 a year, you’ll have to pay CPP contributions. While current you may balk at this sort of reduction in your take-home pay, future you will appreciate the inflation-index adjusted salary you can collect later in life.

FHSA

You can open a First Home Savings Account on your 18th birthday…or maybe your 19th birthday3. And the year you open it, you add $8000 in eligible contribution room…which continues every year, to a maximum of $40000.

Your 19th birthday

The so-called “age of majority4” in Ontario allows you to roll in free money in the forms of GST credits, Trillium benefits5 (in Ontario) and carbon tax credits6 . The cost of admission is filing a tax return. No excuses — plenty of online providers offer free returns for “simple” returns and my friends at Wealthsimple offer “pay what you want” tax filing.

This is also a time you are eligible to open an RRSP7, which may make sense if you’re already maxing out your TFSA contributions.

Your 35th birthday (or later)

An RESP can only be open for 35 years.

Your 60th birthday

This is the first year you can choose to collect CPP; generally speaking, most experts recommend that you delay collecting CPP for as long as possible, for two reasons:

  • It may be the only inflation-protected income you have (this applies to me, I have no other pension)
  • You get more money the longer you wait. (you lose 0.6% of payment for every month you start before your 65th birthday. That adds up to a reduction of 36% if you start on the day you turn 60).

My tools page includes the very helpful CPP calculator, which can help you make a decision concerning your CPP start date.

Your 65th birthday

This is the first year you can choose to collect OAS. Experts are a little more split on whether or not to delay this one — the benefits to delaying to age 70 are not as strong as for CPP8. My plan is to delay, as it’s another inflation-adjusted benefit.

If you’re collecting any sort of pension (RRIF payments, CPP, employer pension) this is the first age at which you can split that income with your spouse. This can reduce your tax bill.

Your 70th birthday

You have to start taking CPP and OAS by this time.

Your 71st birthday

You can no longer contribute to an RRSP and you have to open a RRIF. Lots of the literature out there seems to imply that this is the ONLY time you can open a RRIF, but rest assured, there’s no minimum age for opening a RRIF — I’ve been collecting from mine since the start of the year 🙂

Your 85th birthday

This is the last year you can start collecting from an ALDA (advanced life deferred annuity) you have set up. The ALDA is a vehicle I just learned about, and need to do a bit more research. It may be a way to fund income in your later years when the complexity of managing withdrawals in a DIY fashion may be too cognitively overwhelming.

What birthdays are you thinking about? Let me know at comments@moneyengineer.ca.

  1. Or possibly 19, depending on where you live. ↩︎
  2. But only in increments of $500. Even though inflation is drifting back down to more usual levels, doing the math indicates that we should expect more frequent increases in the TFSA limits in the years to come. Adding $500 to a $7000 limit (a 7% bump)is a lot easier than adding $500 to a $5000 limit (a 10% bump) ↩︎
  3. Per https://www.canada.ca/en/revenue-agency/services/tax/individuals/topics/first-home-savings-account/opening-your-fhsas.html “certain provinces and territories, the legal age at which an individual can enter into a contract (which includes opening an FHSA) is 19 years old” ↩︎
  4. This language is so opaque, it’s like a parody of government speak. Or maybe it’s a commentary on the aging demographic of Ontario? ↩︎
  5. Some of the benefits even kick in earlier ↩︎
  6. A limited time offer, presumably ↩︎
  7. Per CRA, there is NO minimum age at which you can open an RRSP. Contributing to an RRSP requires that you enter into a contract (meaning you have to be of an age that permits this, either 18 or 19) and you have to earn money. ↩︎
  8. It’s still 0.6% per month of delay, or 36% over 5 years. That’s pretty good RoI, in my view. ↩︎

ETFs for parking your money safely

RobH21 Comments

Since my new DIY broker (Questrade) does not support the purchase of high interest savings accounts (HISAs), I need to find a free-to-trade alternative. 5% of my retirement portfolio is invested in what is characterized as “cash”, but I expect that money to earn some sort of return with essentially zero risk. (Another 15% of my portfolio is in the bond market, which, as we all learned in the last few years, has its downsides1.)

Questrade (like Wealthsimple) offers free trades of all ETFs. So it makes sense for me to go looking for ETFs that invest in safe havens. Here’s what I turned up for investments in Canadian dollars, based on some Google searches and some reading of similar questions posted in the public domain. Not all of them are what I would call “equivalent” to a HISA.

Fund SymbolFund CompanyWhat it invests inMERCurrent annual yield2Commentary
CASHGlobal X“high-interest deposit accounts with one or more Canadian chartered banks”0.11%2.68%This invests in the HISAs I currently invest in
CBILGlobal X“short-term Government of Canada T-Bills”0.11%2.88%Not a HISA but a safe investment
HISAEvolve“high-interest deposit accounts”0.15%2.71%Equivalent to CASH but with a higher MER
MCADEvolve“Canadian dollar high-quality short term debt securities (with a term to maturity of 365 days or less)”0.20%3.17%Very short term bond fund. 18% of holdings have due dates of less than 30 days
ZMMKBMO“high-quality money market instruments issued by governments and corporations in Canada, including treasury bills, bankers’ acceptances, and commercial paper. 0.13%3.6%Not a HISA but a very short term bond fund3. 31% of holdings have due dates of less than 30 days.
CAD ETF Candidates for investing Canadian dollars

Based on this quick analysis, ZMMK looks pretty attractive — a lot of very short term (and hence safer) debt as compared to MCAD, excellent returns. It is clearly a riskier investment than something like CASH or HISA. Between CASH and HISA I lean to smaller MERs every time, so CASH wins. CBIL might be a sort of happy middle ground…a T-Bill ought to be as good as a bank. All of these ETFs have a pretty stable NAV, either $50 or $100 per unit, so there should be little to worry about in terms of capital gains.

Since I hold a lot of USD, (not convinced this is a good idea), I need to do the same exercise for USD safe havens.

Fund SymbolFund CompanyWhat it invests inMERCurrent Annual Yield4Commentary
HISUEvolve“primarily in high interest US dollar deposit accounts”0.11%4.05%This invests in the HISAs I currently invest in
HSUVGlobal X“primarily in high interest U.S. dollar deposit accounts with Canadian banks…not currently expected to make any regular distributions”0.2%n/aGlobal X “corporate class” ETFs convert interest payments into capital gains. This sort of ETF makes sense in a non-registered account to minimize taxes.
ICSHBlackRock“broad range of short term U.S. dollar-denominated investment-grade fixed- and floating-rate debt securities and money market instruments”0.08%4.31%Not HISA but 46% is invested in debt with less than 30 days maturity
MUSDEvolve“primarily in U.S. dollar-denominated high-quality short term debt securities (with a term to maturity of 365 days or less).”0.20%3.49%Similar in strategy to ICSH, but only 20% in debt with 30 days maturity and only 40 holdings.
UCSHGlobal X“primarily invests in high-interest U.S. dollar deposit accounts, which provide a higher interest rate than a traditional USD savings account.”0.16%4.08%HISA-like, based on term deposits
USD ETF Candidates for investing US dollars

ICSH is the clear winner in terms of return, but, like ZMMK, a little riskier than a simple bank account. It has a nice broad portfolio (363 individual holdings) which makes it feel safer. HISU looks like the straight-up HISA replacement.

What ETFs do you use to park your cash? Let me know at comments@moneyengineer.ca.

  1. Excellent graphic of historical returns available at https://themeasureofaplan.com/investment-returns-by-asset-class/ ↩︎
  2. Take the latest monthly distribution, divide by the unit price, multiply by 12. If BoC holds their interest rates steady for the year, you could expect to achieve this rate for the next year. As of March 3, 2025. ↩︎
  3. “Commerical paper” refers to very short term debts, 30 days average maturity. Like a credit card debt, maybe. ↩︎
  4. US based funds like this one report a “30 day SEC yield”, it represents “interest earned after deducting the fund’s expenses during the most recent 30-day period by the average investor in the fund”. ↩︎

Changing your online broker: a guide

RobH8 Comments

I have succumbed to the offer of free money and am in the process of breaking up with QTrade in favor of Questrade1.

From https://www.questrade.com/about-us/programs-promotions on Feb 28, 2025

I had no illusions about making the switch; I knew it was going to be a bunch of work to get it done. But as a retiree with no other sources of income, I figured I could spare the time2.

Switching DIY brokers, on the face of it, isn’t terribly complicated:

  1. Create a login on the new provider
  2. Open appropriate accounts on the new provider
  3. Fill out transfer forms to move accounts with the former provider to the new provider
  4. Set up ways and means of moving money in/out of your new provider
  5. For RRIFs and TFSAs, make sure the successor/beneficiary information is accurate3.
  6. Wait for step 3 to complete
  7. Resume investing and/or decumulating

Here are the things I needed to complete each of the above tasks as I went through the process of opening ten (yes, 10!) accounts4 on Questrade.

Step 1: Creating the login(s)

You’ll want a unique and strong password to do that, and using a password keeper of some kind is the best way to do that. Most providers also offer (or require) two factor authentication, and they usually require a cell phone number 5that they can text. Do set that up at the same time, this stuff is important to protect as best as you can.

If your spouse is joining in on the fun, you’ll need a second login for that.

Step 2: Opening the accounts

There will be some series of provider-dependent steps you will need to go through to identify what kind of account you want, and who will own it. And in order to do that, you’re going to need to have a full understanding of what kind of accounts are at your old provider — what vehicle (e.g. RRIF, RRSP, TFSA) and what owner (me, my spouse, or joint) ?

The owner(s) of a given account are easy enough to determine if you refer to your (monthly, quarterly, annual) statements: the name of the owner will be right up on top. In the case of a joint account6, both of your names will be visible. I’m not aware of any way to change the ownership of an account in the process of a transfer.

This step will be rather tedious. Lots of repetitive form filling, and depending on the sophistication of your provider (and, I think, your province of residence matters), you may have to print (!) and sign — with a pen — documents. In my case, the amount of printing was minimal at this step because Questrade makes good use of DocuSign. But other providers may make you print/sign/take pictures/upload7 instead.

Step 3: Fill out transfer forms

There is usually some delay — a day or two — between step 2 and step 3 since there’s usually some sort of back-office approval process involved8. This will give you the time to make a list of all the account numbers associated with the existing accounts and their rough market value. You’ll need those for the forms.

For me, this step involved a lot of download/print/sign/take pictures/upload9. So make sure you have a working printer, sufficient paper, a way to get forms back to your computer, and patience.

You will have to make an important choice at this step: whether to move the funds as cash, or whether to move them in-kind. “Cash” means you’re authorizing the receiving institution to sell your stuff at your old provider before moving it10. “In-kind” means you’re wanting to keep exactly what’s in the old account already. You can also choose to do a partial transfer at this step, but that’s not something applicable to me.

I chose in-kind since I hate being in a cash position for any period of time. But if you hold GICs or mutual funds (I do not), you should really check to make sure you are able to move those in-kind; many providers have restrictions on that sort of thing.

After the fact, I discovered that Questrade does not support HISA accounts. I am hoping that this does not create unintended consequences or delays.

Step 4: Set up ways and means to move money in/out of your accounts

Different providers do this differently. In my experience, most support online bill pay to get money into the accounts (like, for example, to make a TFSA or RRSP contribution), and EFT to get money out (like, for example, a RRIF payment, something rather important to me).

To set up an EFT transfer, you’ll need your banking details (institution number, transit number, account number) and a void cheque. Most banks have a way to do this directly online, no need for an actual physical cheque, if anyone still uses those.

An increasing number of providers11 seem to support direct credential connection between their platform and your banking platform using a third party like Plaid. I freely admit this sort of thing gives me serious heebie-jeebies, and will default to using upload of void cheques whenever possible.

Step 5: Make sure successors and beneficiaries are named for RRIF/RRSP/TFSA accounts

This will make the life of your heirs much easier and deny the government some of the $$$ associated with estate administration fees since properly documented successors and beneficiaries are NOT considered part of the estate. Read all about it in my previous post.

Step 6: Wait

The claim I am getting from Questrade is to allow 20 days for assets to move. This seems totally ridiculous on the face of it. I’ll report back on how long it actually takes. 1-2 weeks is more typical in my limited experience.

While waiting, I’ll complete the forms to make sure I have trading authority over my spouse’s accounts. This should allow me to see all the accounts she owns from my login. This is handy, since I’m the one who does most of the mechanics of making this whole “getting paid in retirement” thing work.

Step 7: Resume investing/decumulating

After making sure everything moved from your old provider to your new provider, as expected, of course.

You’ll probably want to ask your new provider to refund you any transfer-out fees charged by the old provider at this step.

Given Questrade doesn’t support HISAs, I’ll have to find an ETF alternative, which, thankfully, are plentiful. Other than that, I’m not anticipating big changes in the portfolio or the approach.

At this point, I’ll also have to (probably) close out the QTrade accounts and figure out how I’ll get my tax slips from them next year.

All this probably took 8 hours over the course of a few days. So not a trivial amount of time, but the promotional bonus will make it worthwhile12.

  1. And while both brokers start with the letter “Q” and are frequently confused with one another, I can assure you they are different. ↩︎
  2. And the resultant hourly rate if all goes well is better than what I made when I was paid a salary… ↩︎
  3. I covered that topic in this post. ↩︎
  4. For me: Investment account, RRIF account, Spousal RRIF account, TFSA. Same for my spouse. And then there’s one more joint firewalled investment account that we use for VPW’s cash cushion. That retirement decumulation strategy was covered in a previous post. And a family RESP. ↩︎
  5. Not the most secure or even convenient option; Questrade also offered using a standalone app like Microsoft Authenticator, which made me happy. ↩︎
  6. Here I hit a bit of a wrinkle: QTrade has joint non-registered accounts, but Questrade only has joint non-registered margin accounts. I am hopeful (but unsure) that I can successfully transmogrify one to the other. ↩︎
  7. My workflow for this: take picture on iPhone, Airdrop to Macbook, convert .HEIC files to pdf (and possibly, re-export to reduce file size), upload. This step alone would defeat many folks. ↩︎
  8. In my case, TFSA/non-registered was almost immediate, but 2 days in, I’m still waiting for the RRIFs to be approved. There are some extra regulations involved with registered accounts, it seems. ↩︎
  9. This is probably dependent on both providers involved as well as the type of account involved. The RESP transfer requires some CRA form to be filled out. ↩︎
  10. Possibly attracting high transaction charges — you may want to liquidate the assets yourself instead. ↩︎
  11. Questrade and Wealthsimple to name two ↩︎
  12. Note to the political class — maybe it’s time to take a look at the regulations here to streamline this process? Eight hours of effort to change a provider does not seem like it’s in the consumer’s best interest ↩︎