Tag: finance

Why you can fire your advisor: Asset allocation ETFs

RobH26 Comments

Summary: Asset allocation ETFs1 let you buy exactly ONE fund to meet your investing needs. Buy ONE fund, and forget about it. Really? Really.

In the run-up to getting ready for retirement, I greatly simplified my portfolio. On the Canadian dollar side, it’s almost all invested in two places: XGRO and DYN6004 (a Canadian high-interest savings account). On the US dollar side, it’s almost all invested in two equivalent places: AOA and DYN6005 (a US high-interest savings account). XGRO is an example of an Asset Allocation ETF that trades in Canadian dollars, whereas AOA is an example of an Asset Allocation ETF that trades in US dollars. The overarching objective of my retirement portfolio is to keep allocations at 5% Cash and the rest in XGRO or AOA. Effectively, this puts me at about 80% stocks.

What’s an Asset Allocation ETF?

Very simply, they are a kind of ETF that allow you to make one investment decision based on your desired risk profile. Risk is a personal decision, based on factors like timeline before needing the money, how much you agonize over stock market fluctuations and so forth.

More risk means better long-term growth prospects means more stocks.

Looking for higher long term growth? Choose an asset-allocation ETF that has a higher percentage of stocks. Looking for lower long term growth with less volatility? Choose an asset-allocation ETF that has a lower percentage of stocks.

There are many Canadian providers out there who provide their own families of asset allocation ETFs.

Which provider you choose may boil down to which is the most convenient / least expensive to buy and sell. For example, BMO Investorline clients can buy and sell the BMO family with no charges, while QTrade clients can trade the iShares family with no charges.

I personally don’t think that there is much to differentiate each of the families. Each provider is just trying to capture your business. So whether you buy ZEQT or XEQT or HEQT or VEQT 2 probably doesn’t matter very much in the big picture.

I summarized them below:

ProviderETF SymbolsRead more
BMO100% Stocks: ZEQT
80% Stocks: ZGRO
60% Stocks: ZBAL
40% Stocks: ZCON		https://bmogam.com/ca-en/products/exchange-traded-funds/asset-allocation-etfs/
iShares100 % Stocks: XEQT
80% Stocks: XGRO
60% Stocks: XBAL
40% Stocks: XCNS
20% Stocks: XIC		https://www.blackrock.com/ca/investors/en/learning-centre/etf-education/asset-allocation-etfs
Global X3100% Stocks: HEQT
80% Stocks: HGRW
60% Stocks: HBAL
40% Stocks: HCON		https://www.globalx.ca/asset-allocation-etfs
TD90% Stocks: TGRO
60% Stocks: TBAL
30% Stocks: TCON		https://www.td.com/ca/en/asset-management/insights/summary/all-in-one-td-etf-portfolio-solutions
Vanguard100% Stocks: VEQT
80% Stocks: VGRO
60% Stocks: VBAL
40% Stocks: VCNS
20% Stocks: VCIP		https://www.vanguard.ca/en/product/investment-capabilities/asset-allocation-etfs

The magic? Reallocation.

The real magic of asset allocation ETFs is that they do the work of reallocation for you. This is subtle, but crucial. Automatic reallocation takes the emotion out of investing, and means you’re buying low/selling high, every quarter. What?

Take for example XGRO. Per the product brief you can see that its target composition is

  • 20% XIC (the TSX 60)
  • 36% ITOT (the S&P total US stock market, about 2000 companies)
  • 20% XEF (international developed stock market)
  • 4% XEC (international emerging stock market)
  • 16% Canadian bonds (XBB and XSH)
  • 4% Non-Canadian bonds (GOVT and USIG)

The observant reader will note that 80% of this list is made of stocks, divided up over multiple geographies. Anyway, the “target composition” is key here. What this means is that every quarter stocks get bought and sold to re-establish the targets. If the US stock market goes on a tear while the Canadian stock market is tanking, the US gains will be locked in and the Canadian market will get picked up at a discount. It’s a perfect system. No emotion. Just ratios. No work on your part.

What’s the catch?

There is a small cost associated with owning an asset-allocation ETF. Most charge you about 0.20% every year. If you instead decided to own the underlying assets you could probably save on the order of 0.10%. (This is, more or less, what I had in place before I started simplifying my portfolio). But that assumes that you do the rebalancing yourself in a timely way, and the trading fees are negligible.

Wrap up

Asset Allocation ETFs are a great way to get a diversified, risk-appropriate, emotion-free, inexpensive investment portfolio. They are the ultimate tool in the DIY investor’s toolkit.

  1. Also known as “all in one” ETFs. Also known as “funds of funds”. They all mean the same thing. ↩︎
  2. Geez, no points for originality on the ETF names… ↩︎
  3. Global X has additional ETFs on the same page that add leverage to amplify returns. I don’t use them, since the amplification works both ways — in good AND bad markets. ↩︎

Managing money for aging parents

RobHLeave a comment

Before my own parents died, I managed their investments and taxes for about 10 years. Here are some things we had set up that made things much easier as they relied more and more on me in their final years. In my case, they placed their trust in me while of sound mind and body. Things probably look a lot different if this isn’t the case for you. And once again, I will remind you that I’m not a lawyer.

Make sure they have a will, you know who prepared it, and you know where it is

I cannot imagine how much more complex managing my parents’ estate would have been had there not been a will. They made a habit of reminding me where theirs was kept periodically. This was a tremendous relief after they died. In Ontario, the rules of probate dictate that a will has to have an “Affadavit of Execution” in order to be considered a valid document. What this means practically is that the legal team who prepared the will in the first place has to certify that yes, they did indeed prepare the will and the signatures on the will are the ones they remembered. So, as executor, this meant I had to march the signed will over to the law firm who prepared it, and they had to call the lawyer who signed it out of retirement to come in to the office to fill out the Affadavit. (If this sounds crazy to you, I can assure you, you’re not alone…)

Have a Power of attorney (PoA) set up

Having your parents’ logins (which I know is a very common practice) is NOT the same thing as the steps I’m outlining here. While you may be able to do quite a bit this way, having a PoA is much better. The PoA I’m referring to is the “Continuing Power of Attorney for Property” as mentioned by the feds. (There’s another, separate, PoA for health decisions, but that’s not what I’m talking about here). PoA is only applicable to living people — the PoA document doesn’t have any authority once the person is dead, that’s what the will is for. The PoA document is a necessary but rarely sufficient document to get a bank or broker to talk to you on behalf of your parents. Every financial institution I dealt with insisted that I fill out their own forms in addition to providing a PoA to get the ball rolling. Many lawyers prepare PoA documents as part of their will package, but for my parents, we just used the free form on the Government of Ontario website1. With this form I was able to get my own “authorized attorney” login for my parents’ RRIF/TFSA/investment accounts at BMO Investorline.

Set Up an Authorized Representative with CRA

An “authorized representative” is someone designated by the parent as being able to communicate on their behalf with the Canada Revenue Agency. It’s a common practice if you happen to hire a tax pro to prepare your taxes. I was my parents’ authorized rep; it’s surprisingly easy to set up by following the instructions over at https://www.canada.ca/en/revenue-agency/services/tax/representative-authorization/overview.html.

Simplify, simplify, simplify

Any extra bank account, any extra RRIF/TFSA/RRSP/Investment account creates more work and more headaches to the eventual executor of the estate, ESPECIALLY if it involves multiple financial institutions. Do those you leave behind a big favour and ruthlessly eliminate any extras.

A joint bank account between a child and a parent can be very useful

Here you have to be quite careful, lest you inadvertently create a “bare trust” under CRA rules. Here I’m talking about enough money to deal with post-death expenses — last utility bills, funeral expenses…This is helpful since (as stated above) a PoA no longer has any validity once the person who signed it is dead. My parents added me to their joint chequing account many years ago…since this account was quite modest in terms of its holdings (it was really only for day to day expenses) I never had to worry that they had set up a bare trust.

  1. If anyone reading this has any sort of influence on documents posted by the Government of Ontario on their websites, could you please let them know that requiring the use of Adobe Acrobat to open and edit pdfs goes against all notions of equal access to their constituents? My poor little Chromebook doesn’t do Acrobat. ↩︎

Thanks, Wealthy Barber

RobH3 Comments

My investment journey started a long time ago, when I somehow got myself a copy of The Wealthy Barber. I can no longer recall the specific lessons I picked up from that bestseller, save one:

“Pay Yourself First”.

It’s a really simple tenet that reminds me that the only person funding my retirement is me. If you fail to pay yourself first, “future you” will pay the price. It doesn’t have to be a lot, but it does have to be a regular and prioritized occurrence.

One way to prioritize saving is to make it automatic. Every paycheque, carve off a fixed amount to redirect to your firewalled retirement account. At the beginning, maybe that’s just a savings account, but it could just as well be an online broker, as long as that broker is helping you by paying you interest on the money you’ve saved.

As time went on, I came to realize that paying myself first also meant NOT paying advisor fees for my managed retirement portfolio and instead investing that money in future me. It was, at the time, a bit of a scary decision, but one that I do not regret at all.

I was reminded of this very influential book because I discovered you can download the updated version, “The Wealthy Barber Returns” for free from RBC Direct Investing. Do check it out! https://www.rbcdirectinvesting.com/_assets-custom/includes/wealthy_barber.pdf

What’s in my retirement portfolio?

RobH14 Comments

So what’s in my retirement portfolio these days? A fair question. My portfolio is 100% in ETFs excepting the cash position. For historical reasons, a lot of my retirement savings are in US dollars. As as result, you’ll see ETFs listed here that trade on the US stock exchange, in US dollars. It’s not an approach I’d recommend for most people as it adds a lot of complexity to the mechanics of moving money around, which is really what decumulation boils down to!

The pie

The chart shown below is the summary of all my accounts: personal and spousal RRIFs in CAD and USD, TFSAs for me and my spouse, and non-registered accounts in USD and CAD. It comes pretty close to my target of 80/15/5: 80% equity, 15% bonds, 5% cash. Let’s visit how that comes about.

Summary of funds held in my retirement portfolio

What’s in the pie?

AOA: This is what I call an “All-in-one” ETF that trades on the US stock exchange. It’s an 80/20 fund, 80% equity, 20% bonds. Its US weighting is pretty high, its Canadian weighting is pretty small (about 2.4% by my calculation).

XGRO: This is the Canadian sibling of AOA. An “all-in-one” ETF that trades on the Canadian stock exchange. It’s also an 80/20 fund, with a much stronger tilt to the Canadian equity market.

HXT: Is a fund that I only hold in my non-registered account. Through behind-the-scenes accounting and swap contracts, it provides no-dividend access to the S&P/TSX 60. This is useful from a tax perspective if you’re still earning a salary since it effectively defers any tax impact until you sell shares.

XIC: A variant of the S&P/TSX 60 that caps the contribution of any one company to prevent the “Nortel effect” seen in the late 1990s. I’ve been too lazy to clean this out of the account.

DYN6004/DYN6005: Are Scotiabank HISAs in Canadian and US funds (High Interest Savings Accounts). On my provider’s trading platform, they look like mutual funds, but are just savings accounts that pay a decent interest rate, monthly. They have consistently provided the best rates of all the HISAs available on my provider’s platform.

SCHF: A very low cost equity fund that trades in USD. It provides exposure to international developed markets except the USA. It has about 8.5% weighting for the Canadian equity market. I used to have this in my registered accounts, but dropped it in favor of AOA. It’s still in my non-registered accounts so I don’t have to take an unnecessary capital gain.

HXS: The sibling of HXT, but it covers US markets. Only held in non-registered accounts.

VCN: Provides broad exposure to the Canadian market including smaller companies.

In an ideal world, my portfolio would just hold AOA/DYN6005 for US funds and XGRO/DYN6004 in Canadian funds. Eventually, as I decumulate my holdings, that’s what it will look like. Simple is best.

So why is my portfolio not aligned with my ideal model? Three main reasons:

  • Some of the “extraneous” holdings are in my non-registered accounts and I don’t want to incur a capital gain just to make the portfolio simpler.
  • I want a little bit more Canadian market exposure since I do live and spend money here.
  • No pressing need to. The splits between Canada/US/International equities are fine where they are. I try to trade only when necessary.

I’ll revisit this post from time to time as I go through decumulation to see how it evolves. Prior to hitting the button on retirement, I had a lot more ETFs in the list, basically attempting to build the equivalent of XGRO and AOA through other ETFs. For a small cost, (roughly 0.15%) AOA and XGRO rebalance their holdings quarterly so I can just let them run on autopilot, confident that they will always be close to my desired 80/20 splits. That’s why these two ETFs make up the lion’s share of my retirement portfolio.

Moving from DPSP to RRIF: Cautionary Tale

RobH4 Comments

A few things I’ve learned as I undertake the preparation to retirement that may be helpful in the future. For those of you who don’t know, a DPSP (Deferred profit-sharing plan) is a CRA-approved vehicle to invest monies donated by corporations in the context of RRSP contributions (matching contributions). A brief reference can be found here. A DPSP is best thought of as an RRSP that is tied to your employer. Until and unless you leave the payroll of the employer, the DPSP is effectively untouchable by you, the beneficiary.

My employer included a DPSP as part of their compensation package; once I retired, that DPSP became portable and so I initiated the process to move it to my RRIF accounts.

A question you may have is “Why convert to a RRIF at all? Why not just withdraw money directly from the RRSP? “ You can, but it becomes likely that deregistration fees will be owed to your financial services provider. Not only that, but you will also be subject to withholding tax in this scenario. When RRIF minimums are withdrawn, there is no withholding tax, and there is no deregistration fee. Just 100% of the money you expect.

So my plan was to retire on December 31, 2024, and start collecting from my RRIF as a source of income in 2025. My plan had a small flaw, however. With a RRIF, you are required to withdraw a minimum amount from it based on your age and the value of your RRIF in the year after your RRIF is created.


You can access RRIF money as soon as the RRIF exists, but the annual minimums stated above are only calculated for the first time the year AFTER it’s opened. Practically, what this means is that if you try to withdraw money from a RRIF in the year it’s created, your withdrawals will be subject to withholding tax (boo).

So my little plan has a problem. My DPSP is only available to me as of Jan 1, 2025. Which means this account will only be converted to a RRIF in 2025. Which means I can only withdraw tax-free from the RRIF starting January 1st, 2026.

So that’s my tiny cautionary tale for y’all. If you’re planning on retiring, and you’re planning on getting near-immediate access to your DPSP funds via RRIF, I would NOT recommend a Dec 31st retirement date. A month earlier would be better, so you have time to set up the RRIF and access the RRIF funds in January.