Tag: investment

Investment basics: Asset Allocation

RobH19 Comments

We’ve talked about asset allocation / asset classes before in this space, most recently here. But while watching a recent post1 from one of my favourite experts, The Loonie Doctor2, it occurred to me that it might be helpful to start right from the beginning.

And to me, that beginning is understanding WHAT to invest in. Broadly speaking, you can choose between three categories: “Equity”, “Bonds” and “Cash”.

“Equity” refers to stocks of publicly traded3 companies. Owning stock means you own a piece of the company you invest in. This allows you to collect dividends if and when the company pays them out. If the company fails/goes bankrupt, the stock becomes worthless.

“Bonds” are essentially loans to companies or governments4. When you buy a bond, you’re buying into a stream of interest payments that stop when the bond is paid off. If a company who issued the bond fails/goes bankrupt, bond holders legally get first dibs on whatever assets remain in an effort to get their money back, but it’s possible that there isn’t anything left to fight over. Bonds can be fully paid off in various timeframes, from very short (30 days) to very long (20 years).

“Cash” is the money that’s left. Cash can be invested in things like high interest savings accounts, GICs/Term Deposits, Treasury bills (aka T-Bills), or stuffed under a mattress5. There is definitely a grey area between “Cash” and “Bonds” since both involve lending money to an entity. Shorter duration loans are more cash like. Lending to governments and large corporate entities (like banks, which is what you’re doing when you buy a GIC) is more cash-like. Money under a mattress is absolutely cash, albeit not really an investment at that point.

Using the data tabulated here, you can build a chart like the one below to see how much the $1000 investment you made in each of these categories would be worth 50 years later6.

The chart shows that Equities outperform Bonds and Cash by a wide margin when looking at an investment time period of 50 years. Bonds also outperform Cash substantially.
Historical returns for Canadian equities, bonds, and cash (as of December 2024)

Looking at this chart, it should be reasonably obvious that equities, represented here by Canadian Stocks, over time, generate the best bang for your invested buck. The “over time” phrase is very important, because otherwise, one could rightly ask, “why would anyone ever invest in anything other than stocks?”. The reason is volatility — in any given short time period, your returns could look very, very bad indeed. Just one example (of many) — the TSX has LOST money in 3 of the last 10 calendar years per https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S%26P/TSX_Composite_Index.

Bonds, generally speaking7, have a much steadier and predictable return, often uncorrelated with stocks. When stocks go up, bonds often move in the opposite direction. And cash, well, its benchmark is the inflation rate. If cash is returning the inflation rate8, then at least you’re standing still.

In my investment portfolio, my target allocations are 80% Equity, 15% Bonds, 5% Cash. Using products like all-in-one ETFs and my handy-dandy multi-asset tracker spreadsheet make this relatively easy to track. In my next post, I’ll show how to identify ETFs in each of the categories.

  1. Which provides further justification that using all-in-one ETFs is really the best approach. ↩︎
  2. Which, while positioning itself as being for doctors, has a ton of useful information for those of us who are not physicians as well. ↩︎
  3. And of course it is possible to buy stock in private companies (so-called private equity) but since I don’t know very much about that world, I figured I’d keep it simple and just talk about things that are available to the general public. ↩︎
  4. And the financial stability of those companies and governments can vary a lot. That’s where bond rating services can point you to higher quality entities (with a low risk of not paying) or lower quality entities (with a higher risk of not paying, but a better interest rate — the bottom of the barrel here are called “junk bonds”). ↩︎
  5. AKA “the chequing account of most major banks”, which don’t pay any interest ↩︎
  6. For “Canadian Stocks” this is the TSX Composite index (former name: TSE 300). “Canadian Bonds” is 10 year Government Bonds. ↩︎
  7. Let’s forget 2021-2 ever happened to the bond market. ↩︎
  8. And it doesn’t always do so! ↩︎

Rebalancing the portfolio: A real-life example

RobH1 Comment

If you adhere to asset-allocation strategies (as I do) then rebalancing your assets to reset them back to your targets is a way to make sure you stay on track1. Some people do this on a regular basis (monthly, quarterly, annually) but I try to do it whenever the drift becomes noticeable (more than 1% off of my targets2). The targets for my portfolio are

  • 5% cash
  • 15% bonds
  • 20% Canadian equity
  • 36% US Equity
  • 24% International equity

Given the week we’ve just had, it’s not really a surprise to see that I’m overweight in cash, and underweight in foreign equity. Some of my cash is untouchable because it’s the built-in cushion that Variable Percentage Withdrawal (VPW) requires3, so that’s out. The majority of the cash in play is found in my RRIF accounts, and most of that is found in USD.

So the problem to solve for is to find a low-cost International Equity ETF that sells on the US market. Let’s walk through the steps I go through for that.

Copy what’s in my USD all-in-one ETF

Long time readers will know that most of my USD holdings are invested in AOA. (What’s the deal with AOA? Asked and answered here.) Since AOA is an all-in-one ETF, and since I know that AOA has international holdings (around 28%), and I know that AOA is inexpensive to hold, I can just do what AOA does, right?

So that is certainly a possibility, but as it turns out, AOA invests in TWO international ETFs, namely:

  • IDEV, which is a broad international ETF that tracks the developed world (you can see the Sector and Geographic breakdown here)
  • IEMG, which is a broad international ETF that tracks emerging markets (Sector and Geographic breakdown here)

IDEV and IEMG are both excellent funds, but I don’t really want to buy two funds if I can help it. AOA holds these two in a roughly 3:1 ratio, and I am too lazy to keep that straight.

So time for plan B.

Google for an appropriate ETF

So I type “international ETF USD” into Google and see what I get.

The first hit is linking to etfdb.com which isn’t my favourite website. They always list 100 ETFs when I want to choose from maybe 4. So I skip that link.

Then I get a hit for IXUS, which is an iShares product. This one I’ve heard of, and it has a clever name (ex-US, get it?). On IXUS’ overview page, I see three promising factoids:

  • It provides “exposure to a broad range of international developed and emerging market companies4“
  • It has a MER of 0.07%, which is acceptable.
  • It’s not clear to me how much is in emerging markets, but the geographic exposure breakdown includes some non-G7 economies, so that’s good.

So that’s pretty good, but I want to look at least one more ETF to be a good comparison shopper.

A little bit further down I get a hit for VXUS, a Vanguard product. Like IXUS, it has a clever name (ex-US, get it?) and so I feel compelled to look closer.

And I see three factoids again:

  • It provides “Broad exposure across developed and emerging non-U.S. equity markets”
  • Its MER is 0.05%
  • The geographic exposure breakdown looks an awful lot like IXUSes, even though the underlying index it’s tracking is different5

And so, with that, the decision is made: we go with VXUS because it’s 0.02% cheaper than IXUS.

Actually DOING the rebalancing

This will be new ground for me, because it will be using my new provider for the first time (Questrade). My old provider let me sell one ETF and immediately buy another, and I assume that Questrade will also allow this, but until I try it, I’ve learned not to assume things.

Oh, yes, the “cash” in my USD RRIF is actually also an ETF, namely ICSH, which is because Questrade doesn’t provide any other means to earn money on “cash”.

So anyway, on Monday, a few hours after the stock market opens, I’ll take a look and see if trading is still a advisable — has the market suddenly recovered? Is it so volatile it warrants sitting on the sidelines? I’m guessing both of those will be a solid “no”, but I will wait until Monday to follow through.

Rebalancing (Somewhat) Complete

I signed in yesterday to my brokerage account around lunchtime so I missed all the morning’s excitement. After everything I wrote above, I didn’t buy VXUS after all — since my US equity portion was also significantly below target, I bought AOA instead, thus increasing both my US and International equity positions at the same time. I used a limit order since the bid/ask spread was like 20 cents, far higher than I’m used to seeing.

When markets are this nutty, I don’t like making all purchases at once. Since Questrade trading of ETFs is now totally free, I can take my time and incrementally shift the portfolio back to targets.

  1. Long time readers may wonder why rebalancing in my portfolio (which is dominated by asset allocation ETFs) is required at all — one of the reasons to invest in an all-in-one is BECAUSE it rebalances automatically. The answer is simple — although MOST of my portfolio is in all-in-ones, not ALL of it is. As I prepared my portfolio for retirement (read more about that here), I couldn’t justify selling assets and attracting capital gains in my non-registered account just to make the portfolio simpler. ↩︎
  2. I track those targets using the Multi-Asset tracker found here ↩︎
  3. VPW is how I get paid in retirement. You can read about the method here. ↩︎
  4. Closer reading of the product page shows IXUS tracks the MSCI ACWI ex USA IMI Index ↩︎
  5. VXUS tracks the FTSE Global All Cap ex US index ↩︎

I’m retired and the market is tanking. What do I do?

RobHLeave a comment

TL/DR: Look at your asset allocation and rebalance if needed. Otherwise go for a nice run.

Yesterday was pretty ugly. My retirement holdings, dominated by AOA and XGRO took a huge hit this week. And today will likely bring more of the same. Before Friday’s open, AOA is down 3.31% for the week, and XGRO is down 3.64% for the week. No doubt about it, I’m quite a bit poorer than I was on Monday1. What actions am I taking?

As always, I keep an eye on my asset allocations

In market downturns, some asset classes (e.g. Canadian equity, Bonds, International Equity) will suffer more than others, typically. This allows for effective asset rebalancing, possibly. (If you want to better understand how I think about asset allocation, this article might shed a bit of light on that.)

If the asset class allocation drifts too far from my targets, then that’s an indication to make a move out of one class and into another. A 1% drift off my target is usually enough for me to make a move. That hasn’t happened in my portfolio as of this morning, but I notice that the percentage of US equity is quite a bit down from the last time I looked.

As an aside, I track my asset allocations using my own Google Sheets tool, which you can find here.

If you do place trades in markets like this, do it wisely

If prices are swinging wildly, it might make sense to wait for a quieter day. But if not, then do use limit orders so you’re getting a price for the asset you can live with, either on the buy side or the sell side2.

Oh, and if you trade in ETFs (as I do), the start and end of the day are not good times to do that. Read more about why here.

In retirement, use a withdrawal scheme that helps you weather storms

I use “Variable Percentage Withdrawal” (VPW), a scheme that is designed to make sure you only spend what you can afford based on your age, your net worth, and your current (or future) pensions. And it comes with a built-in shock absorber so that even though the market looks like a roller coaster, the payout of VPW is considerably less wild. You can read about VPW over here.

Don’t do anything silly

I read all the time about people “moving to cash” at times like this. This will lock in your losses, and cause you to miss the inevitable gains that will return. Gains have a habit of showing up very quickly, and trying to “time the bottom” is not a winning strategy.

Case in point: per https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_largest_daily_changes_in_the_S%26P_500_Index two of the worst days on the S&P 500 in recent history (March 12, 2020 and March 16, 2020) were followed by two of the best days (March 13, 2020 and March 24, 2020).

If all else fails

Step away from the news feed. Go for a nice long walk/run/bike.

  1. I was also going to write something about the USD/CAD exchange rate, which yesterday was really NOT in my favour, but it already appears to be recovering. A lot of my retirement holdings are in USD, so if the CAD gets stronger, those holdings are negatively impacted. ↩︎
  2. During the COVID meltdown of the markets (remember March, 2020?), my online broker started posting warnings on their trade screens to use limit orders. Guess they had too many angry traders. ↩︎

What’s the deal with AOA?

RobH6 Comments

***Updated numbers February 2026***

As mentioned elsewhere, I rely heavily on all-in-one ETFs in my retirement portfolio. New to all-in-ones? Read a bit about them here.

Previously ,I covered what’s in XGRO, which is an all-in-one you can purchase on the Canadian market. Because I also happen to have a lot of US dollar-based retirement savings, I have the majority of those funds invested in AOA. AOA is an 80/20 fund 1 offered by BlackRock. It seems that this sort of all-in-one is not as popular in the US as Canada, not sure why2. I see offerings from State Street that sound similar. BlackRock has other members of their asset allocation family with different equity percentages — there’s something for everyone!3

I thought it would be interesting to see what, exactly, is underneath every $100 you invest in AOA. So by reading AOA’s ETF description, following the ETF descriptions of what’s inside AOA, and doing a little math, I came up with the following breakdown4:

FundWhat is it?How much?Colour Commentary
IVV US stock coverage that tracks the S&P 500 Index, 500 of the largest US companies $44.53 of your $100 investment

(of which ~3.50$ is in Nvidia, ~$3 in Apple, and ~$2 in Microsoft, with ~$1 in Amazon, Alphabet, Meta, Broadcom and Tesla)		The Magnificent 7 and 493 other companies
IDEVBroad international (ex-US) developed market stock coverage that tracks the MSCI WORLD ex USA IMI Index, about 2250 companies $23.02 of your $100 investment

(of which ASML gets 42 cents, Roche gets 26 cents…)		This also includes a tiny slice of Canada…top holding is RBC at 18 cents of your $100
IUSBBroad US Bond market exposure, about 16,000 bonds from government and corporate entities$16.36 of your $100 investment

(of which $6.45 is in US Treasury, $1.44 is in the Federal National Mortgage Association…)		12 month trailing yield is 4.18%, not too shabby
IEMG3500 or so international companies from emerging markets, following the MSCI Emerging Markets Investable Market Index $9.29 of your $100 investment

(of which $1.06 is in Taiwan Semi, 42 cents is in Samsung..)		23% China, 22% Taiwan, 16% South Korea, 14% India, …
IAGGAbout 5800 international bonds tracking the Bloomberg Global Aggregate ex USD 10% Issuer Capped (Hedged) Index5$2.83 of your $100 investment

(of which 30 cents is Japanese T-Bills)		Trailing 12 month yield = 3.27%, has lost a full point in the last year
IJHUS Midmarket stocks that track the S&P MidCap 400 Index$2.59 of your $100 investment (of which 2 cents is in Lumentum, who I’ve never heard of)25% Industrials, 15% Financials…
IJRUS Small Cap stocks that track the S&P SmallCap 600 Index $1.22 of your $100 investment
(largest holding is Solstice Advanced Materials)		IJH+IJR+IVV is sort of similar to ITOT
Main components of AOA as of February 2025

Like XGRO, investing in an all-in-one like AOA provides you with exposure to a bunch of different asset types across many different geographies in one product, including all of the “hot” stocks you read about ad nauseam. Diversification under one banner.

The big difference from XGRO is the very tiny representation of Canada overall. I worked it out to about 2.5% of the overall number, which makes sense given the size of Canada on a global scale.

I came across the “Three Fund Portfolio” popularized by Bogleheads over 15 years ago. AOA and its family members is more or less that concept.

  1. Shorthand for “80% equity, 20% bonds”. There remains a lot of disagreement about the appropriate asset allocation, e.g. https://www.bogleheads.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=210178 ↩︎
  2. Instead, I see a lot of “target date” retirement ETFs, which are in some ways similar, but lower the equity percentages as you get closer to the target date. ↩︎
  3. There’s also AOR (60% equity), AOM (40% Equity) and AOK (30% Equity) ↩︎
  4. Compare with the XGRO breakdown at https://moneyengineer.ca/2025/01/30/whats-the-deal-with-xgro/ ↩︎
  5. That’s a mouthful. ↩︎

Ok, I’m ready to fire my advisor. What do I need to do?

RobH2 Comments

So you’ve decided to make the leap and keep more of your own money. Congratulations! Here’s a list of things you need to do to put that plan into action.

Disclaimer: I treat my retirement assets separately from any other assets (rainy day funds, day-to-day expenses). If you blend these sort of things together, it may change things like step 1.

1. Determine your desired asset mix

“Asset mix” is just another way of describing your risk profile, or in really plain English, what percentage of your portfolio is going to be invested in equity. There’s a quick questionnaire over here that will put you in one of 5 buckets:

  • Very Conservative: This means 20% Equity.
  • Conservative: This means 40% Equity.
  • Balanced: This means 60% Equity.
  • Growth: This means 80% Equity.
  • Aggressive Growth: This means 100% Equity.

If you’re happy with the way your existing portfolio is performing, then you can instead calculate the percentage of equity in it and use that as your asset mix. For simplicity, I would consider any stock as “equity” and any cash, HISA, Bond fund or GIC as “not equity”. If your portfolio holds ETFs, then you need to see what’s inside them. You can typically read that on the “fund facts” page. They are usually one or the other, unless you already hold funds like XGRO.

2. Choose your platform and create login(s) for it

But which one? I talk about some of the things to consider over here, or you can investigate a trustworthy source like the Globe and Mail’s annual rankings. Some providers (e.g. QTrade, Questrade) allow you to make trial accounts to test drive them. I myself use QTrade for my investments. Like all providers, it does some things really well, and others, not so much. I have either personal experience or friends using (in alphabetical order) BMO Investorline, Interactive Brokers, iTRADE, QTrade, Questrade and Wealthsimple. Any of them will do. Many of them run promotions1 trying to entice you to switch. Might as well take advantage of that if it makes sense23. Also consider if they will reimburse you the transfer fees imposed by your soon-to-be-ex provider of choice4.

The heading of this section says “login(s)” because if you’re part of a spousal team, you should really do this as a team.

This step also usually entails form-filling and proof of life uploads/emails/faxes5 (photo ID, banking info….). Put on your favourite tunes and the time will be filled with pleasant sounds.

3. Figure out how to move money to and from your new platform

If you’re still contributing to your TFSA/RRSP/RESP, or if you have non-registered accounts, or are close to retirement and about to set up a RRIF, then it’s pretty important to know how money will move in/out of these accounts. Typical things you’ll have to do are

  • set up your new account(s) as “Bill Payees” online banking6
  • set up EFTs7 between your bank account and new platform
  • set up new Interac eTransfers8
  • Get cheques/bank card for your non-registered account, if applicable9

4. Collect all your existing account information

To successfully complete the transfer, you are going to need to know the details of all your existing accounts. The usual information requested is found on your monthly/annual statements. Client number, account number, rough value of what’s in each.

If applicable, you’ll also want to have a very good handle on exactly how much you’ve contributed to capped government savings vehicles (e.g. RRSP, TFSA) so you don’t inadvertently over contribute in the year you make the shift10.

There may be a snag at this step. You may hold assets at your old provider that are not supported at your new provider. This may or may not be a big deal. Typical issues are caused by

  • GICs11. The reason you get good interest rates from them is because the money is locked away. You may or may not be able to move them without incurring penalties. You’ll have to ask your new provider what they are willing to do. In most cases, the answer will be “sorry, can’t help you, if you want to move them, you’ll have to sell them first”12.
  • Mutual Funds. Many of these are private to that provider,13 and constitute, in their estimation, considerable value add. For these, you are almost certainly going to have to say goodbye (and good riddance) .

For GICs, you can choose not to move those assets, wait until they mature, or eat the cost of cashing them in early.

For Mutual Funds, selling them usually isn’t a concern, unless you hold them in a non-registered account, in which case there may be undesirable capital gains that will cause a tax hit.

For most people, the costs involved in moving assets are small compared to the money you’ll ultimately save by firing your advisor. But don’t say I didn’t warn you.

5. Initiate account transfers from your newly selected platform

This is the first step where things get real.

Different providers will do this somewhat differently, but it’s usually called something like “Transfer Account”. In my experience, providers are highly motivated to be highly helpful at this stage ;-).

But in essence, initiating an account transfer will involve two things:

  • The creation of the kind of account you’re moving (e.g. TFSA, RRSP, Spousal RRSP, RRIF14) AND
  • The details of that account (client number, account number….all collected in the previous step)

It’s also possible you have to create the account (TFSA, RRSP….) on your new platform FIRST, and once it’s created THEN you can initiate a transfer.

You will have to answer a question of moving the existing assets “in kind” or “as cash”. If you hold portable assets at your old provider (e.g. cash, stocks, ETF), “in kind” is fine. If you don’t (e.g. GICs, mutual funds) then “as cash” will allow your new provider to trigger a sale of those assets.

You will have to do this for EVERY account you’re moving. Were I to switch, I’d have to move

  • 4 RRIF accounts (2 each for me and my spouse; one in CAD, one in USD)
  • 2 spousal RRIF accounts (1 for each spouse)
  • 2 TFSA accounts (1 for each spouse)
  • 5 investment accounts (2 for me, 1 for my spouse, and 2 joint15)
  • 1 RESP account

6. Wait for the funds to arrive

This always seems to take forever. Expect a delay of 5-10 business days at this point. Expect a panicky call from your soon-to-be-ex advisor. Take the time to set up Trading Authority (TA) for your personal accounts (spouse, adult child, other relative) so they can make trades on your behalf. There’s a form for that. Having TA for my spouse’s accounts means I can see our ENTIRE retirement portfolio from my login which is Highly Desireable.

7. Buy the correct ETF in line with step 1.

As as example, if you were to use the Blackrock family of asset allocation funds:

  • Very Conservative: This means 20% Equity. This means XINC.
  • Conservative: This means 40% Equity. This means XCNS.
  • Balanced: This means 60% Equity. This means XBAL.
  • Growth: This means 80% Equity. This means XGRO.
  • Aggressive Growth: This means 100% Equity. This means XEQT.

The reason for choosing an asset allocation fund is for automatic re-balancing. You pay about 0.15% for that service, which is baked into the price of the fund. It’s more or less what your advisor should do for you today.

8. Pay as much or as little attention as you like

As you invest new funds (e.g. for TFSA/RRSP), buy more units. You might also consider setting up a DRIP at this stage so as dividends roll in (typically, monthly or quarterly), you automatically purchase more of the same. Autopilot.

If you want a second set of eyes to assess your holdings, then dropping some cash on a fee-for-service advisor from time to time may make sense.

Eight steps to save potentially thousands of dollars. You’re worth it!

  1. Googling (for example) “Wealthsimple promotion” would be one way to find the current one. ↩︎
  2. Read the fine print, there are almost always caps on rewards, as well as obligations to stick with the provider for a period of time. ↩︎
  3. Here is one rare case where there may indeed be something pretty close to a free lunch. ↩︎
  4. Almost all providers do this; there is almost always some sort of lower limit…$15k is pretty typical. ↩︎
  5. Any provider wanting faxes should disqualify them as a provider, just sayin’. ↩︎
  6. This is how QTrade does it. ↩︎
  7. Electronic fund transfers. You provide institution/transit/bank account number using a blank cheque. That’s how QTrade knows where to put my RRIF payments. Another form to fill. ↩︎
  8. Only Wealthsimple seems to allow this. It’s fast, but has upper daily/weekly/monthly limits that may make it impractical. ↩︎
  9. Both BMO Investorline and Wealthsimple allow this. I’m guessing that it’s a common feature for providers that also operate bank services (e.g. CIBC, TD, National Bank, Scotiabank). My provider (QTrade) does not. ↩︎
  10. Your new provider will have no idea what your TFSA limits are; only CRA knows that. Most providers will track what you contribute IN THEIR ACCOUNT in a given year, so that’s somewhat helpful. ↩︎
  11. The lack of liquidity of GICs is the main reason I don’t use them. ↩︎
  12. The one exception I’ve encountered thus far is that BMO Investorline was willing to accept the GICs purchased via BMO Advisor Services. There may be others. ↩︎
  13. Manulife and Sunlife, much loved by employers for DPSPs, are notorious for their 1.5% MER index funds. ↩︎
  14. Don’t forget to properly designate beneficiaries or survivor annuitants. ↩︎
  15. These are CAD and USD versions of the cash cushion required by the system I use to pay myself in retirement. ↩︎