Tag: RRIF

What’s in my retirement portfolio (Jan 2026)?

RobHLeave a comment

This is a monthly look at what’s in my retirement portfolio. The original post is here.

Portfolio Construction

The retirement portfolio is spread across a bunch of accounts:

  • 6 RRIF accounts
    • 3 for me (Questrade, QTrade, Wealthsimple)
    • 3 for my spouse (Questrade, QTrade)
  • 2 TFSA accounts (Questrade)
  • 4 non-registered accounts, (1 for me, 1 for my spouse, 2 joint, all at Questrade)

The view post-payday

I pay myself monthly in retirement, so that’s a good trigger to update this post. On January 26, this is what it looks like:

The portfolio is dominated by my ETF all-stars, but if you’ve been following along, you’ll see a few changes.

  • As mentioned in a previous post, I did some shifting around and you now see XAW and XIC increasing their contribution to the portfolio at the expense of XGRO.
  • I also tidied up some extra funds that aren’t needed — VCN was replaced with XIC1, and I turfed some small holdings.
  • I sold more HXT than I needed to for my monthly paycheque, and when I discovered the mistake2, I just bought XIC instead.
  • And, I did my quarterly Norbert’s Gambit to shift some AOA to XGRO. And again, I came out ahead!

Plan for the next month

The asset-class split looks like this; you can read about my asset-allocation approach to investing over here.

It’s looking pretty close to the targets I have, which are unchanged:

  • 5% cash or cash-like holdings like ICSH and ZMMK
  • 15% bonds (most are buried in XGRO and AOA, some are in XCB)
  • 20% Canadian equity (mostly based on ETFs that mirror the S&P/TSX)
  • 36% US equity (dominated by ETFs that mirror the S&P 500)
  • 24% International equity (mostly, but not exclusively, developed markets)

Overall

Net worth overall is up month over month, reversing a 2 month losing streak and hitting a new all-time-high:

My VPW-calculated salary resumed its upward trend, also hitting an all-time high.

My QTrade RRIFs should move perhaps this week, but I’m no longer confident about that. More on that once resolved.

  1. Which, in my mind, are equivalent. This post goes in lots more detail. ↩︎
  2. I had to do some quick manual calculations because I had already updated my auto-calculating spreadsheet to reflect fewer RRIF accounts. My RRIF transfers are 2 months in progress and counting. I guess trying to move a RRIF near the end of the year was a bad idea. ↩︎

Portfolio Optimization In Practice

RobH2 Comments

My retirement portfolio is spread across multiple brokers and multiple accounts. And although I treat the portfolio as a unified entity when it comes to asset allocation (the concept is discussed here), different accounts have different allocations. The reasons are varied, but I would rank inertia as one of the big contributors — sticking with what’s there seems like a lot less effort than the other options.

What I think in important to point out is that the portfolio is still dealing with inflows and outflows every single month:

  • I pay myself RRIF minimum from my RRIF accounts, and this usually means selling some shares of XGRO
  • If RRIF minimum isn’t sufficient for my expenses (and it hasn’t been), then I have to liquidate shares from my non-registered account.
  • I contribute to our TFSAs every month
  • Questrade gives me free money every month as a reward for shifting assets their way (see how I did it here). This money shows up in my non-registered accounts1.
  • Dividends show up every month2; every quarter there is an even bigger distribution
  • And quarterly I convert some of my AOA holdings to XGRO within my RRIF using Norbert’s Gambit3. When I do this, it reduces my US and international equity holdings and replaces it with Canadian equity4.

So given all these ins and outs, there are always opportunities to tweak the asset allocations so that they remain close to my targets.

The targets, as always, are unchanged:

  • 5% Cash (mostly ultra short-term bonds)
  • 15% bonds
  • 20% Canadian Equity
  • 36% US Equity
  • 24% International Equity

Last week, a reader’s question (please send questions or comments to comments@moneyengineer.ca) led me to take a different look at what was in each of my retirement accounts (RRIFs, TFSAs, non-registered), and this week I acted on correcting a flaw in the way the accounts were structured.

The reader was actually asking about foreign withholding tax implications since the rules are different depending on whether the asset is held in non-registered, TFSA or RRIF but after spending a lot of time looking at it, I decided that, from a tax perspective, the portfolio was actually in reasonable shape. (If you want to dive into this yourself5, you can read https://www.finiki.org/wiki/Foreign_withholding_taxes and https://pwlcapital.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/2017-12_Ben-Felix_WP_Asset-Location-Uncertainty.pdf).

But this study did make me realize that the small allocation I had of bonds in my TFSA was wrong-headed. Since in my planning the TFSA is the LAST place I’ll head to fund my retirement, it follows that it should have the longest-timeline investments. So, for me, that means 100% equity is the correct allocation for the TFSA accounts. So what did I do?

  • I sold the bonds in my TFSA (XSH was the ETF), and put them in my RRIF (choosing instead to use XCB, a longer-duration corporate bond fund)
  • Of course, since you can’t add money to a RRIF, something had to be sold there. XGRO was plentiful, so that’s how I funded the bond purchase. From an asset allocation perspective, selling XGRO meant that I reduced my Canadian, International and US Equity exposure at the same time.
  • To compensate, the cash I generated in my TFSA by selling XSH was used to buy a combination of XIC (Canadian Equity) and XAW (US and International equity combined). XIC was already in the TFSA6. XAW is new but gives back the US Equity and International Equity I lost by selling XGRO7.

This is how the two accounts break down now, both from an ETF and an asset-allocation perspective. (In the asset allocation charts “Income” is the nomenclature I use for “bonds” and “Cash” means actual money as well as ultra-short-term bond funds like ICSH and ZMMK).

The result is my TFSA is now 100% equity, and the lower-growth cash-generating bonds are now all in my RRIF accounts. More efficient all around!

  1. Leaving the free money as part of the retirement portfolio was a conscious decision. I could have just as easily decided to withdraw the money every month. ↩︎
  2. Both ZMMK and ICSH pay monthly. They are both featured in my ETF all-stars. ↩︎
  3. You can read about it here. ↩︎
  4. AOA is 50% US equity, 28% International equity. XGRO is 36% US Equity, 24% International Equity. ↩︎
  5. It’s not a straightforward topic. In the end, the foreign withholding tax isn’t huge but as a cheapskate, it’s noticeable and can be higher than MERs of the ETFs you hold. ↩︎
  6. XIC helps tilt the overall Canadian equity allocations in the right direction. AOA tilts it in the wrong direction. ↩︎
  7. The current numbers don’t allow me to use an XEQT/XIC combination. Over time, this will change. ↩︎

“My parent has more money than they’ll ever need!”

RobHLeave a comment

Disclaimer: I’m not a tax expert, accountant or lawyer. My only expertise comes from being the financial caregiver to my late parents.

Say you’re the financial caregiver for your parent1. And you have come to the realization that they are going to die with a large estate. Maybe they have a good work pension. Maybe they have sold their principal residence and their monthly expenses would take 86 years to eat through the assets. Maybe they have both.

I’m going to make the assumption that your assessment is sound. That your parent does, in fact, have more money that they will need for what is left of their life2. I’ll go one further and make the assumption that your parent isn’t so keen on leaving a big legacy to the CRA. So what should you look out for?

Asset = part of estate = subject to estate tax

Anything of value (property, stocks/ETFs, GICs, art, furniture, cars, cash) owned by the parent at time of death becomes part of the estate, and is therefore subject to the “estate administration tax3” aka “probate tax”. And this money becomes frozen until the courts grant probate, something that takes months, if not years.

One way to dodge some of this probate tax is to name beneficiaries for TFSAs and RRIFs. Assets inside accounts set up this way will not be subject to the estate administration tax, and will not get tied up in probate court. But do be careful — a RRIF that flows to beneficiaries will still attract the same tax time bomb mentioned below, and this has to be taken into account because in my case, no tax was withheld!

RRIFs are a tax time bomb

Recall that RRIFs4 are just RRSPs in reverse: the RRSP is the growth phase, the RRIF is how you shrink it. And recall that RRSP contributions subtract from your taxable income in the year you make them. Did you think the government was going to let you pay no tax forever on that subtracted income? Of course not. That’s why RRIF income is treated as, you guessed it, income in the hands of the RRIF owner, and is taxed the same way as any income5.

Annual RRIF payments can be as large as the RRIF owner likes. Payments above the minimum6 attract witholding tax, which is normal, if you think about it. Taking out more the minimum can allow for some tax avoidance. Why? Taking a small tax hit for a few years is almost certainly preferable to the big tax bomb that happens when a parent dies with a large RRIF remaining. The parent in this situation will be assumed to have taken the entire RRIF as income on the day of death. If the RRIF is large, then you’ll be dealing with tax at the top rates7. By spreading out the RRIF income over a few tax years, you should be able to make the income small enough to avoid the top tax bracket; otherwise you’re not really saving much of anything. That will take some finessing.

Donate shares from non-registered accounts to charity

If there are ETFs or stocks held in non-registered accounts, the tax treatment of donated shares is quite generous. Not only do you get the charitable credit based on the market value of the donated shares, you avoid any capital gains tax. Larger charities accept stock donations, but if they don’t, you can also make use of a service like Canada Helps.

Give money away

Giving money to a charity generates a tax credit, which is good. Giving money to children, friends, relatives, strangers — also good. Gifts are tax-free for the giver and the recipient. Gifting houses or stocks is less good since doing this results in what CRA calls a “deemed disposition” meaning that CRA treats the gift as though your parent had sold the asset first, attracting the usual capital gains.

Of course, to give money away, you either have to have cash on hand, or you have to take it from the RRIF (where it’s treated as income to the parent who owns the RRIF), or you have to take it from non-registered accounts (where you may have to sell assets and attract capital gains), or you have to take it from the TFSA (which is effectively problem-free, other than you can’t put the money back in the same calendar year).

  1. I’m going to make this article simpler by assuming there’s one parent remaining. ↩︎
  2. Getting this wrong would be catastrophic on so many levels. Take care here. ↩︎
  3. In Ontario estates <$50k pay nothing. After that it’s $15 of tax per $1000. ↩︎
  4. I covered RRIFs over here. ↩︎
  5. Yeah, ok, you can split RRIF income with your spouse and this can help you avoid higher tax brackets. In my case, my spouse and I have RRIFs that are about the same size, and therefore generate about the same annual income. ↩︎
  6. The mimimum is calculated at the start of the year based on the size of the RRIF and the age of the RRIF owner. ↩︎
  7. in Ontario, in 2026, you hit the top rate of 53.53% for income over $258,482 per https://www.taxtips.ca/taxrates/on.htm ↩︎

Questrade and RRIFs: Annoying

RobH4 Comments

It’s January 2026 and so I’m about to undertake my first withdrawals from my Questrade RRIFs. For the entirety of 2025, I’ve only had to deal with QTrade’s methodology for RRIF payout, which looked something like this:

  • Determine what my monthly RRIF-minimum amount would be. (For QTrade, I had to call support to get this number…why, I don’t know). Once this was established, it didn’t change for the year, so that was easy.
  • Before the end of the month, I had to sell assets to make sure I could cover the monthly payment
  • The minimum payment was taken from available cash and deposited into my linked chequing account without any action on my part on the last business day of the month.

So for Questrade, I’m trying to do the same thing, but so far, no joy.

  • Determine what my monthly payment is. When I talked to an agent on January 2, they could not tell me as they claimed that it wasn’t available yet. Or they didn’t understand my question.
  • Today, I got an email from Questrade, reminding me that my payment was due shortly and to make sure I had enough cash to cover the payment. And if I didn’t know what the payment was, I had to call support.
  • I also learned that if I don’t have the cash to cover the payment, they’ll just skip it.1

Now, of course I know how to work out what my RRIF payment for any RRIF account will be — all you have to do is know the RRIF value at the start of the year and know how old you are2, and presto. But because my Questrade RRIFs have USD components, knowing the exact exchange rate is also necessary, and that’s where uncertainty creeps in.

Anyway, I have a pretty good idea what the minimums will be, but I’m not going to hang out for an hour waiting to talk to an agent3 to get it penny-accurate. I’ll have a little extra cash for the first month, at which point it should be clear enough what my monthly payments will be.

This is yet another example of small, but rather irritating shortcoming from the provider of my choice. One that you wouldn’t know about until you experienced it firsthand. Would it really be so hard to report the amount on my account screen4? Anyway, something to ponder if you’re nearing retirement or are starting a RRIF with a new provider…

  1. QTrade would’ve sold things on my behalf and charged me for the privilege, so I suppose this is a better option ↩︎
  2. What the CRA refers to as a “prescribed factor”. You can’t make this stuff up. Their charts only show the factors starting at age 71, but believe me, you can take payments from a RRIF well before that age. ↩︎
  3. Word to the wise: avoid talking to Questrade support when they have a promotion running, it will seriously test your patience… ↩︎
  4. I note that Wealthsimple and BMO Investorline both do ↩︎

CPP and OAS as part of a retirement plan

RobHLeave a comment

One of the confusing questions I got from my international colleagues when I announced my retirement was “what’s the retirement age in Canada”? And, after thinking about it, said, “There isn’t one that I know of”, which is, strictly speaking, correct.

However, for many Canadians (and, I suppose, for many people around the world), “retirement age” equates to “the age where I can collect my pension”. For me, the equivalent statement was “the time when my retirement savings were sufficient1” (you can read about the steps I took here). I don’t have a private pension through my employer, so CPP, OAS and my own savings are all I have to sustain my needs throughout retirement.

CPP (Canadian Pension Plan) and (possibly2) OAS (Old Age Supplement) are two sources of income that will eventually make up part of my retirement income, but not for a while. For the time being, my retirement income comes from a mix of non-registered asset sales (about 2/3 of my 2025 household income) and RRIF payments (about 1/3 of my 2025 household income)3. My advisor suggested waiting as long as possible to collect on CPP/OAS, which is age 70 for both.

But maybe, if you haven’t retired yet, you haven’t really thought too much about these things4? Here’s a quick primer.

What’s CPP and what’s it worth to me?

CPP applies to anybody who has contributed to the plan; how much you contribute annually is captured on your T4 slips. You can see your lifetime contributions5 by logging into your My Service Canada Account. It is the history of these contributions6 that ultimately determine what your annual pension will be in the year you first start taking it.

The first year you are eligible to receive CPP is the year you turn 607; every month you wait after turning 60 increases your monthly payment. The absolute maximum CPP you could collect would be waiting until you turn 708. The Feds lay it all out here.

The absolute maximum monthly CPP you could possibly get as a 65 year old is $1507.65 in January 2026 per the Feds9. Since I retired early, and 18 year-old me worked a part-time minimum wage job, my CPP will be less than that. (The CPP calculation takes your best 32 years of earnings into account).

What’s OAS and what is it worth to me?

OAS (“Old Age Security”) applies to anybody who has lived in the country long enough10. OAS can start at age 65, and be delayed until as late as age 70. Like CPP, OAS rewards those who start payments later than age 6511. You get an OAS supplement of 10% when you hit 75.

The absolute maximum monthly OAS payment in the first quarter of 2026 is $742.31 if you’re under 75 and $816.5412 if you’re over per the Feds. (These amounts are adjusted every quarter in accordance with inflation rates.)

The wrinkle with OAS is that it’s income-tested. If you make too much money, you’re going to have to pay some of it back. If you really make too much money, you’ll have to give it all back. This is commonly known as “OAS Clawback”13.

The magic of CPP and OAS

CPP and OAS payments are both indexed to inflation, for as long as you collect it. This is key for me personally — none of my other income sources are inflation-proof, so the more I can get that is inflation-protected, the better. That’s part of the reason I’m planning on delaying collecting CPP and OAS until I’m 70 — that way, I can maximize the inflation-protected income. The other reason I’m delaying these payments is to try to avoid OAS clawback. The earlier I take RRIF money out, the lower my RRIF income will be later in retirement, when I have to start adding CPP to my income. I have no idea if I will avoid the clawback because it depends on the performance of specific elements of my portfolio. But try I will.

Estimating CPP and OAS for VPW

My decumulation strategy is based on VPW (Variable Percentage Withdrawal). I’ve talked about it previously over here and here. VPW requires, as an input, the value of a future pension. So how do I go about estimating that? Any reasonable estimate might want to ignore what the feds put on the periodic CPP summaries they send out because those estimates are assuming you’re retiring at 65, and working at a similar salary level (of course, if that’s your plan, then it’s perfectly fine — but it wasn’t mine :-))

All good estimates start from the lifetime contributions table you can find at My Service Canada. From there I’ve given a few tools a spin:

PWL Capital Tool

https://research-tools.pwlcapital.com/research/cpp

This tool has a lot of neat features, but be careful. The model bakes in both inflation estimates and wage inflation estimates that are changeable, but not immediately obvious.

CPP Calculator

https://www.cppcalculator.com/

This is one I recommended previously in Tools I Use, but the upload feature has been broken for a while now. It still works by entering it manually, but I now prefer the tool below….

Finiki CPP and QPP Calculator

https://www.finiki.org/wiki/CPP_and_QPP_calculator

The Finiki tool is now my favourite because it’s available as a worksheet (Google Sheets, Excel and Libre Office all supported), and all you need to do is enter in your pension contributions. The current version (2.3) hasn’t been updated with the latest YMPE values, but it’s a trivial exercise to update them.

  1. “sufficient” means different things for different people. You have to have a budget, and you have to have an idea what sort of estate, if any, you’re intending to leave behind. ↩︎
  2. I figure my odds are 50/50 that my combined CPP+RRIF income when I hit 70 will render me ineligible for OAS. ↩︎
  3. I am not planning on actually working for a living anymore; there are all kinds of rules concerning the interplay of CPP and employment income, but I’m not talking about them here because that scenario doesn’t apply to me. ↩︎
  4. Or, if you were a cynic like me, figured that it wouldn’t exist by the time I got to an age where I’d be collecting it. Seems like the pension plan is currently in pretty good shape. ↩︎
  5. Starting at age 18. ↩︎
  6. Mostly. If you took a leave from employment to raise a family, there is special treatment which could increase your pension. ↩︎
  7. You get 36% less of a monthly payout by starting at age 60 compared to age 65. ↩︎
  8. You get 42% more monthly compared to age 65. ↩︎
  9. You would have to be at maximum pensionable earnings for 39 years between the ages of 18 and 65 to get this amount. (47 years less the 8 worst years of earnings). ↩︎
  10. OAS can be estimated by using the Canada.ca calculator which is down at the moment: ↩︎
  11. Details at https://www.canada.ca/en/services/benefits/publicpensions/old-age-security/when-start.html ↩︎
  12. Which, if you’ve been paying attention, is 10% more than the benefit for someone under age 75. ↩︎
  13. OAS is progressively reduced if you make more than $95k in 2026. You get no OAS at all if you make more than ~$155k at ages 65-74, $160.5k for ages 75+. These numbers are modified 4 times a year based on inflation. ↩︎