high angle shot of two people working in the office

Retirement taxes versus paycheque taxes

I’ve talked about how to think about taxes in retirement before (and I re-read my post, it still holds up) but maybe something that isn’t clear how it differs from when you collected a steady paycheque.

The paycheque withholds tax et al at the source; retirement, maybe not

I think this is well understood. The government likes getting taxes all year round, not just in April. And so part of your paycheque is remitted to the government — taxes, yes, but also CPP/EI contributions and all that stuff that no longer applies when you stop collecting a paycheque.

Withholding tax is an excellent example of the “pay yourself first” principle popularized by The Wealthy Barber. You never see the money, so you sort-of forget it’s yours. Anyway, all things being equal, the withholding amounts should be pretty close to correct, but there are all kinds of things that can throw off the calculation: bonuses, charitable giving, and RRSP contributions are the main ones. I never quite understood people who were happy to get a tax refund. That’s your money you’re getting back, and you’ve given the government an interest free loan.

Anyway, in retirement, this may not be the case:

  • If you pay yourself RRIF minimum (as I do) then there is no tax withheld at source. Of course, you can take MORE than RRIF minimum, in which case you will experience withholding tax, just like the bad old days when you were working.
  • If you pay yourself from non-registered investments (as I do), you’re likely creating taxable income if you’re selling assets that have increased in value. And that taxable income contributes to (surprise, surprise) your tax bill. Now it bears repeating that only half of your capital gains attract the CRA’s attention: the other half, and the money you put in, are all yours to keep, tax-free.
  • And of course T-slip capital gains, interest income and dividend income isn’t taxed at the source either. All of it must be accounted for at tax time.

The implication of all this is that you have to be ready to pay some of your retirement salary back to the CRA. I have a special Wealthsimple savings account1 that I contribute to monthly; I “self-withhold” about 15% of my salary, fully expecting to drain this account come tax time2.

You care less about marginal tax rates, and more about overall tax rates

In case you weren’t aware, not every dollar you make is taxed the same way. Canada has tax brackets; each tax bracket has its own tax rate. Thanks to taxtips.ca, you can get a combined federal/provincial look for how your income is taxed:

This table (and most tables like it) are showing marginal rates. The marginal rate is the tax rate charged on the income that sits above the floor of the tax bracket. Lots of people mix up the idea of marginal rates versus overall tax rates. Let’s take a simple example of someone who is drawing a salary or getting their income from a RRIF: both are taxed as “other income” in the table above:

  • Net income: $50,0003. Tax bill: 19.05%*$50000=$9525. In this example, there is no difference between your marginal rate and your overall rate.
  • Net income: $55,000. Tax bill: $9525 on the first $50,0004, and 23.15%*$5000=$1,157.50 on the remainder. Your total tax bill in this case is therefore $9525+$1157.50=$10,682.50. Your marginal rate is 23.15%, but your overall rate is much lower: $10682.50/$55000=19.4%.

My financial advisor I hired pre-retirement suggested I should target a 15% marginal tax rate, blended between my spouse and I. That’s not easy to do on RRIF payments alone, but then of course you have to consider other income sources like capital gains and dividends.

Non-registered investments can pay a salary; but tax treatment is quite different

So I look for my non-registered investments to generous returns — whether those are capital gains or dividends is unimportant. From a tax perspective, capital gains are especially weird because when you’re paying yourself by selling assets, you are typically earning MORE than “just” the capital gain (i.e. the part that is taxable) part. An example may help.

Let’s say you bought $10000 of XEQT in January 2023. As of today (October 22), it would be worth $200005:

And say you sold it all on October 22m — you’d have $20000 in your bank account. Hooray. CRA would say you made a capital gain of $10000. So if that represented your whole taxable 2026 income, that would attract a tax bill of 9.53%*$10000 =$953.00. Thinking about overall rather than marginal tax rates, you’d therefore have an overall tax rate of $953/$20000 = 4.7%! Pretty sweet.

If instead that $20000 was a RRIF withdrawal, and you had no other taxable income, CRA would present you a tax bill of 19.05%*$20000=$3,810.00, an overall tax rate of 19.05%,

Maybe you’re counting on your non-registered investments generating $20,000 of dividends instead. This generates an overall tax credit in this case6!

Retirees are obsessed with how much tax they pay

Since taxes tend to be your single biggest expense in retirement, I understand why. I try to be smart without going to extreme lengths; as I learned managing my parents’ estate, there’s either going to be a tax bill while you’re alive, or a much larger one when you’re dead. Taxes you avoid in the early years of retirement are either going to come due once you start collecting CPP/OAS7, or when you’re dead. RRIFs8 and non-registered accounts are considered liquidated on the day of death, attracting all the income/capital gains in one calendar year, and hence the highest possible tax bracket.

  1. This account does NOT factor into my net-worth calculations. I’ve already, in effect, written it off. ↩︎
  2. And in my case, this I expect will start to be every quarter as I’ll shift to paying tax in instalments. Oh well. ↩︎
  3. Net income is lower than your salary, since everyone has (at least) the personal deduction. ↩︎
  4. using the calculation above ↩︎
  5. And doubling your money in less than 4 years is an excellent argument for holding equities. (Of course, you’ll all be crowing when the floor eventually falls out, but equities do outperform over time…) ↩︎
  6. If you’re in a lower tax bracket, it’s hard to beat dividends. They start to become less efficient as you climb the brackets, especially if you’re collecting OAS since grossed up amount of dividends are use to test eligibility for OAS. ↩︎
  7. OAS clawback is a particular obsession of the retired. ↩︎
  8. Unless you declare your spouse as a successor annuitant; you’ve already done that, right? ↩︎

black and white wrenches on asphalt surface

Recent DIY Investing tools I’ve heard about

Lately, I’ve been exposed to a flood of new1 tools that target the DIY investor. Some I read about in the media (the Globe and Mail’s On Money newsletter is a good read), and some I get wind of through mails I get to comments@moneyengineer.ca (I do read all my mail).

I figured I’d summarize what I’ve seen; appearance here means I know they exist; I don’t use any of them at the moment.

I have taken (relatively) recent closer looks at tools like MyACB/AdjustedCostBase, Portfolio Pilot, Snowball Analytics and Portfolio Tracker should you be looking for a more in-depth review. I may at some point spend more time with some of tools below — let me know if you’ve got a favourite you’ve got in mind at comments@moneyengineer.ca, or tell me about your own experience with any of them!

ActiveACB: An ACB Tracker

Their website: www.activeacb.ca

Their pitch: Canada’s most complete ACB calculator for every investor. ActiveACB reads the trade history your broker already exports, rebuilds the ACB of every security you have held across all of your accounts, and turns the result into the proceeds, adjusted cost base, outlays, and gain or loss that Schedule 3 asks for on each disposition.

My quick take: Everyone who owns assets in a non-registered account should be tracking their ACB themselves, as brokers are notoriously bad at it2. ActiveACB has explicit support for options trading, and for assets held across multiple non-registered accounts, which might be of interest if that reflects your own situation. I can say from firsthand experience that the development team is VERY responsive to feedback.

Gilded: A financial planner/advisor

Their website: https://www.gildedfinancial.com

Their pitch: “Gilded is a future-focused financial planning app for a new generation of wealth builders. Through accurate projections, easy data tracking, and seamless simulations, we empower you to take control of your money and be your own best advisor. You don’t have to guess your financial future. You can know.”

My quick take: Canadian fintech. Projections, what-if scenarios. Includes retirement planning, too. I paid for a personal financial plan when I was getting ready for retirement to give me a sense of ease that I actually had enough to retire. I recommend some sort of oversight for everyone. Gilded isn’t just for retirement, it looks like it can also help people saving for that future, too.

Greenline: A portfolio tracker

Their website: https://usegreenline.com/en-ca

Their pitch: “See everything you own. In one place. You’re probably checking a few different apps just to see what you own. Greenline brings every account into one view.”

My quick take: Currently (October 2026) in free public beta. “Canadian focused, and Canadian built”. Lots of nice looking charts to take a closer look at what’s inside your portfolio. If you want a dashboard view of your overall portfolio across multiple accounts and providers and don’t like using spreadsheets, this is worth a look. I track my portfolio performance using my Google Sheets template. I’m ok with that.

Looniee: A portfolio tracker

Their website: https://looniee.ca

Their pitch: “Track your net worth and your TFSA/RESP/RRSP/FHSA room. If you invest in Canada, your money probably sits in more than one place: a TFSA at one app, an RRSP at the bank, maybe a pension and a home. Each one shows you a piece. None of them show you the whole thing. Looniee puts it on one screen, in Canadian dollars, with the room you have left in each account.”

My quick take: Looniee has some unique features that would be of interest to those who are still in the accumulation phase of their financial journey. For instance, tracking remaining contribution limits for Canada’s various savings vehicles can be challenging, at least based on my reading of the community of savers out there. Unlike some other tools, they work off of your statements, so there’s no need to trust Looniee with brokerage login information. I’ll probably take a closer look at this one.

Manticore: A portfolio tracker

Their website: https://manticorefinance.com

Their pitch: “Your entire financial life, in one place. A premium desktop app that tracks stocks, ETFs and crypto with auto-updating prices, plus your bonds, your net worth, budgets and a full suite of institutional-grade analytics: private by design, encrypted at rest.”

My quick take: It’s Windows software and I have nothing to run it on. It doesn’t support Canadian taxes, but may someday. And, like I said earlier, I’ve already got a portfolio tracker that suits my needs. If you’re Windows user and you want to do deep analysis on your portfolio, then this might be for you.

TextPhi: A finance companion

Their website: https://www.textphi.com

Their pitch: “The future of investing is in your contacts. Research. Watch. Test. In your texts. Whatever you want to understand, track, or test, just text Phi. Research that runs 24/7. Filings, earnings, markets, news, social, and more. Phi keeps digging even when you’re not. Phi remembers everything that matters. Over time, Phi builds a model of you as an investor, not just a record of your portfolio.”

My quick take: Built by UW students3, this product is still in invitation-only beta. Its innovation is relying on text messages to inform you about things you might want to know about your portfolio. You can ask it questions and get answers, all from the comfort of your phone. If you like to buy individual stocks, this might be for you. Given that I’m a boring asset-allocation passive index investor, I don’t trade on news, quarterly earnings or the latest social media post. I just stick to my asset allocation targets.

ValuEdge: an investor terminal

Their website: https://valuedge.app

Their pitch: For long term investors who want clarity, not noise. Know what you own, what it’s worth, & what changed. ValuEdge brings your brokers, valuations, watchlists, dividends, and alerts into one investor terminal — so you can track business value instead of just price.

My quick take: Although ETF tracking is supported, the focus of the tool and the included analytics would be more useful to the stock picker. I don’t buy individual stocks, preferring to buy the market through the use of all-in-one ETFs, primarily.

  1. Well, new to me ↩︎
  2. I use adjustedcostbase.ca myself. ↩︎
  3. Gotta support the alma mater ↩︎

RRIF and RRSP coexistence

Summary: It’s possible for you to collect income from a RRIF at the same time as contributing to (and taking deductions from) an RRSP.

If you’re new to world of RRIFs, or think that they only come into play once you turn 71, then you might want to give Demystifying RRIFs a read.

In my case, I worked until the end of 2024, having opened RRIF accounts and funding them with my RRSP holdings1 in the last quarter of 20242. Unsurprisingly, my Notice of Assessment for the 2024 tax year included the usual “new” RRSP contribution room based on salary earned during the 2024 tax year.

But what to do with that RRSP room? And if I use it, when should I take the deductions?

Can I even take advantage of it?

Answer: yes, as long as i do it before I turn 71.

The CRA rules are pretty clear on this topic. You can make and deduct contributions up until the year you turn 71, even if you’re retired.

Ok, but then there’s the problem of coming up with the money to MAKE the contributions.

Making contributions to the RRSP in retirement

One of the reasons you seem to have “more” money when you retire is that you stop saving money for retirement. RRSP contributions constituted a significant line item in my annual budget while working. In retirement, I don’t really need to save the money, but taking advantage of the possibility to defer taxes seems like a good idea.

One way to tackle the issue is to initiate a small monthly contribution to my RRSP; at least this starts to build up deductions I can use when it makes sense to; I don’t need to make it a huge amount, but over time it will build up a deduction that could come in handy later.

So, when is “later”, exactly?

When to take the RRSP deduction when retired

My annual salary in retirement, by design, is variable, based on my net worth calculated every month. You can read about it here. I expect that over time my salary will increase3, so “future me” will be the one taking the deduction.

My guess is that there will be a few places where having a deduction ready might come in handy:

  • Generally, I’m just trying to reduce my overall tax bill. My advisor suggested that I try to optimize my income every year to get to an overall (not incremental) tax rate of 15% for the household. The RRSP deduction is another lever I’ll be able to use to help accomplish that.
  • I’m trying to avoid paying tax by instalments. Looks like if your tax owing is >$3000 in two consecutive years, then you’re going to be asked to pay your taxes four times a year. Taking RRIF minimum payments (as I do) means no withholding tax, so it’s rather likely that at some point I’m going to be faced with this. Having the possibility to delay this is a nice thing; I hate giving the government access to my money any sooner than strictly necessary.
  1. Most writing on this topic talks about “converting” RRSPs to RRIFs. But that’s not really how it works, at least not with two providers I have dealt with. In reality, you open new RRIF accounts and move the RRSP assets in-kind to those RRIF accounts. The RRSP account remains intact, albeit with nothing in it. ↩︎
  2. RRIF payments become obligatory in the calendar year AFTER the year in which you open them. You can take payments sooner, but that’s a manual process, and any payment so taken will be subject to withholding tax. Since I wanted to take RRIF minimum payments in 2025, I had to have the RRIFs ready in 2024. ↩︎
  3. The percentage of my net worth used to fund my monthly salary increases every year, just like how a RRIF calculation works. In theory, the rate of return of my retirement investments is currently higher than my percentage withdrawal, meaning that future salaries are likely to be higher than current ones, but that’s not an ironclad guarantee. ↩︎

Death, Taxes and Estates: Part 1

I am not a lawyer, accountant or tax expert. Your situation may be a lot different than mine. Seek professional guidance if needed.

What happens to our investments when we die? Having lost both my parents in the past 2 years, I’ve (regrettably) had a lot of exposure to the ins of outs of estates and how they work.

Being Ready for the Inevitable

Fact: we’re all going to die. Pretending this isn’t true isn’t helpful to your survivors. So there are some concrete things you should have in place before that happens.

  • Have a will. Whether DIY, software-assisted1, or prepared by a suit, just get it done — here’s a nice step-by-step guide. And if you do have one, is it up to date? Take a look.
  • Have the will name exactly one executor, with alternate executors in the event your first pick isn’t available . Hearing multiple stories from multiple sources about how much extra work and delay having joint executors causes, I cannot recommend this all-too-common approach. You’re not “playing favourites” by naming one person2.
  • Make sure your executor knows how to get a hold of the will. Be very specific, and repeat this information frequently so it’s top-of-mind.
  • Make sure your RRIFs/RRSPs/TFSAs name successors and/or beneficiaries. I covered that topic in more detail here.
  • Make sure any life insurance policies name a beneficiary
  • Make sure your workplace pension3 names a survivor4.
  • Prepare a death binder5 with all assets clearly specified — provider name, account numbers, name on the account. Is the list really long? Maybe it’s time to trim that list down. Every provider on that list will create work for your executor. So if you want to be kind, keep the list of providers small. Make sure your executor knows where to find it.
  • Have a month or two of expenses in cash that is accessible by those who survive you, like in a joint chequing account. Assets held solely in your name will be frozen when you’re dead, possibly for weeks or months.
  • Set up someone (your executor, for example) as your authorized representative with CRA. This makes dealing with taxes much easier for those that you leave behind. How? Read here.

My Situation

My parents held no real estate, and all their assets were held in DIY investments (RRIF, TFSA and non-registered accounts). They each had a will and named the other as the executor with me as the alternate. They dealt with two providers — one for their DIY investments (BMO Investorline) and one for their day-to-day banking (CIBC). So in terms of complexity I think I had it pretty easy.

Dealing with the death of the first parent

My Dad’s death was not a surprise, and because of this I was able to maximize his TFSA contributions before he died. Dad did hate paying taxes.

Although my Mom was legally the executor, I did almost all the work involved. Most providers seemed to be pretty good about dealing with me once they got confirmation from my Mom. The key documents and facts you’ll be asked for in almost every encounter are the same, so have these ready each and every time:

  • Date and place of birth of the deceased
  • Date and place of death of the deceased
  • SIN number of the deceased
  • A death certificate (this is issued by the funeral home, typically)
  • The will
  • Funeral home invoice (if applying for a death benefit)

Dealing with the bank was easy. One 30 minute meeting6 and all was sorted.

As many DIY financial services providers don’t have brick and mortar locations, high quality digital versions7 are also generally accepted. In the case of BMO Investorline, I had to visit a BMO branch8 with the documents so they could send them as “true copies”. How a provider with no affiliation with a bank does this, no idea9.

In the case of any DIY investment held in the deceased’s name — those assets get frozen upon notifying the provider. This can be problematic if one is relying on those assets to say, pay rent, or pay for funeral arrangements.

The unexpected complication arose from the non-registered joint account — it didn’t just “convert” to removing one person’s name from the account — you have to open a new, individual account, involving all the same paperwork as though you were a new client, and then transfer the joint assets “in kind” to the new account. During this time, the funds were not accessible. This is beyond annoying, but I suspect this is the same regardless of who your provider is. My mom lost access to her joint account for about 6 weeks while this was settled.

Taxes for the death of the first parent

The tax return you file for a person who has died in this scenario is called (ominously) the Final Return. A person who dies is treated as though they sold all their assets on the day of death. I did not file a T3 Return10 return for my Dad, since all the assets passed through to my Mom. If he had had non-registered assets held solely in his name, I think I would have had to.

  • For a RRIF or RRSP, this means CRA assumes you sold all the holdings on the day you died and recognized it as income11
  • For a non-registered account held solely in one name, CRA assumes you sold all the holdings on the day of death and recognized any capital gains at that time.

I was able to successfully file the Final Return for my Dad using Wealthsimple’s tax software12. The Final Return cannot be eFiled — you have to print it and send it using snail mail.

Adjustments after the death of the first parent

After my Dad died and my Mom had all the combined TFSA/RRIF assets in place, we updated her TFSA and RRIF to name me and my siblings as beneficiaries by filling out a form. This proved to be helpful in reducing the tax bill a bit when she died. More on that in a future post.

  1. “willful.” seems to be a trendy option nowadays: https://www.willful.co/ ↩︎
  2. One could argue the opposite — just give the duties to your least favourite relative as a last vengeful act ↩︎
  3. Some workplace pensions provide death benefits and/or an ongoing survivor pension, but only if you take the trouble to name a survivor in that pension. ↩︎
  4. And if you do, I’m envious 😉 ↩︎
  5. Paper is probably less trouble than trying to provide a file location/passwords, but YMMV. ↩︎
  6. Prearranged online of course. You can’t just walk into a branch to do anything these days. ↩︎
  7. You’ll get good at this workflow or go crazy trying. Take photo on phone, airdrop to laptop, compress/convert image so it can get through email… ↩︎
  8. Do NOT assume that the brokerage has anything to do with the bank with whom they share a logo. I learned this the hard way with BMO/BMO Investorline. ↩︎
  9. Maybe notarized documents? Let me know at comments@moneyengineer.ca. ↩︎
  10. AKA “Estate Return”. A person who dies becomes a new tax entity, typically named Estate of <dead person> ↩︎
  11. Which is why you name a successor for your RRIF — this tax penalty is thereby avoided ↩︎
  12. It was because Intuit Quicktax could not handle this scenario that I ended my decades-long relationship with them. ↩︎

Significant birthdays for the DIY Investor

There are significant birthdays every DIY investor should be aware of. Did you know about all of them?

The list below is a gross simplification — like all things in the Canadian Tax code, the exceptions and caveats fill many pages, but this is roughly correct. I’ve included links so you can read the relevant sections yourself and see if you agree with my simplifications!

The day of your child’s birth

Per the feds, a birth certificate for your child is all you need to apply for a Social Insurance Number. And although their working days are far into the future, their RESP eligibility starts right away — but you can’t open an RESP for a child unless that child has a SIN. The lifetime limit for donations to an RESP is currently set at $50k/child. The sooner those contributions start, the sooner you can collect free money (the CESG, $500/year, $7200 per child lifetime), and the longer your contributions can benefit from the power of compounding.

Your 18th birthday

This is significant one for a number of reasons!

TFSA

Once you turn 181, you can open a TFSA and begin contributing. Even if you don’t start contributing, your TFSA limit starts to accumulate the year you turn 18. In 2025, that annual limit is $7000 per year, and it grows at the rate of inflation2. It’s cumulative, so it’s not a “use it now or lose it forever” kind of proposition. At the start of every calendar year, there are a flurry of announcements indicating the new annual limit.

You can contribute to your TFSA forever, even in retirement. I am!

CPP contributions kick in

If you’re over 18 and earn more than $3500 a year, you’ll have to pay CPP contributions. While current you may balk at this sort of reduction in your take-home pay, future you will appreciate the inflation-index adjusted salary you can collect later in life.

FHSA

You can open a First Home Savings Account on your 18th birthday…or maybe your 19th birthday3. And the year you open it, you add $8000 in eligible contribution room…which continues every year, to a maximum of $40000.

Your 19th birthday

The so-called “age of majority4” in Ontario allows you to roll in free money in the forms of GST credits, Trillium benefits5 (in Ontario) and carbon tax credits6 . The cost of admission is filing a tax return. No excuses — plenty of online providers offer free returns for “simple” returns and my friends at Wealthsimple offer “pay what you want” tax filing.

This is also a time you are eligible to open an RRSP7, which may make sense if you’re already maxing out your TFSA contributions.

Your 35th birthday (or later)

An RESP can only be open for 35 years.

Your 60th birthday

This is the first year you can choose to collect CPP; generally speaking, most experts recommend that you delay collecting CPP for as long as possible, for two reasons:

  • It may be the only inflation-protected income you have (this applies to me, I have no other pension)
  • You get more money the longer you wait. (you lose 0.6% of payment for every month you start before your 65th birthday. That adds up to a reduction of 36% if you start on the day you turn 60).

My tools page includes the very helpful CPP calculator, which can help you make a decision concerning your CPP start date.

Your 65th birthday

This is the first year you can choose to collect OAS. Experts are a little more split on whether or not to delay this one — the benefits to delaying to age 70 are not as strong as for CPP8. My plan is to delay, as it’s another inflation-adjusted benefit.

If you’re collecting any sort of pension (RRIF payments, CPP, employer pension) this is the first age at which you can split that income with your spouse. This can reduce your tax bill.

Your 70th birthday

You have to start taking CPP and OAS by this time.

Your 71st birthday

You can no longer contribute to an RRSP and you have to open a RRIF. Lots of the literature out there seems to imply that this is the ONLY time you can open a RRIF, but rest assured, there’s no minimum age for opening a RRIF — I’ve been collecting from mine since the start of the year 🙂

Your 85th birthday

This is the last year you can start collecting from an ALDA (advanced life deferred annuity) you have set up. The ALDA is a vehicle I just learned about, and need to do a bit more research. It may be a way to fund income in your later years when the complexity of managing withdrawals in a DIY fashion may be too cognitively overwhelming.

What birthdays are you thinking about? Let me know at comments@moneyengineer.ca.

  1. Or possibly 19, depending on where you live. ↩︎
  2. But only in increments of $500. Even though inflation is drifting back down to more usual levels, doing the math indicates that we should expect more frequent increases in the TFSA limits in the years to come. Adding $500 to a $7000 limit (a 7% bump)is a lot easier than adding $500 to a $5000 limit (a 10% bump) ↩︎
  3. Per https://www.canada.ca/en/revenue-agency/services/tax/individuals/topics/first-home-savings-account/opening-your-fhsas.html “certain provinces and territories, the legal age at which an individual can enter into a contract (which includes opening an FHSA) is 19 years old” ↩︎
  4. This language is so opaque, it’s like a parody of government speak. Or maybe it’s a commentary on the aging demographic of Ontario? ↩︎
  5. Some of the benefits even kick in earlier ↩︎
  6. A limited time offer, presumably ↩︎
  7. Per CRA, there is NO minimum age at which you can open an RRSP. Contributing to an RRSP requires that you enter into a contract (meaning you have to be of an age that permits this, either 18 or 19) and you have to earn money. ↩︎
  8. It’s still 0.6% per month of delay, or 36% over 5 years. That’s pretty good RoI, in my view. ↩︎